Gorillas for Thanksgiving

After another thrilling day on Ugandan roads, the Mahogany Springs Lodge in the Bwindi rainforest was heaven. The tropical air was lush and the gorilla trek excitement was palatable.  The lodge was gorgeous. We were up early and anxious about our gorilla day.  Will it rain (and keep the gorillas up in the trees)?  How far would we have to hike?  How thick will the brush/nettles be? What will the other (5) people in our group be like? How close will we get? Will it live up to our expectations...

Our group (8 permits are given per gorilla family, $500 each for one hour visit, once a day) made a harrowing drive up a washed out mountain, hopped out and started to hike with our local porters, trackers and guide.  We were lucky that the sun was shining but the trail was thick with mud and the brush was hazardous. After an hour and a half gorillas were spotted.  We had to leave our packs, porters, and walking sticks behind to approach the gorillas.  Of course our huge silverback leader took off and led us racing through the brush.  Falling ass over elbows in nettles leaving a bloody trail, I missed Esra, my porter, and started questioning my sanity.  Then suddenly we were standing in the middle of about 16 gorillas.  There was a mom and her 22 day old baby, another 1 year old playing, a grumpy old man and of course the massive silverback leader eating and watching us. They are truly incredible creatures. Not only could I read their expression, but it was obvious that they could read ours. It was exhilarating, profound and humbling. I will forever remember this Thanksgiving Day.

When our hour was up and we were hiking away, the silverback charged our group twice.  It was terrifying.  Our tracker, armed with a machete did not flinch.  He just told the group to stay behind him and not to run.  Run?  No problem, I was scared stiff.  The silverback went on his way and my heart started again.  The guide speculated that although unusual he was charging to impress the ladies in his family.  Alpha males are the same the world over...  Our mission in Uganda was complete.  We bonded with "our cousins" and lived to tell about it.

Now it was time to relax. I had a massage in our room and the best shower in Africa.  Our Thanksgiving lemon chicken dinner in the dining room with rainforest views, was perfection.  In addition to great friends and exotic travels, I am also thankful for good South African wine this year!