Pilgrimage to Pushkar

At first I was just praying that I would reach the holy city of Pushkar alive. Abid resembled the Hindu God with many arms as he weaved through six hours of country side at lightening speed. The best thing about Pushkar is that it's a pedestrian town!

I fell in love with this little holy hamlet on the water. The Pushkar Palace Hotel right on the lake was the nicest hotel I've had in India. There is a peacefulness around Pushkar that extends from the great Brahmin temple to the little shops and cafes that cling to the edge of the holy lake. Closing the day at the Sunset Cafe was my favorite time. However, the no alcohol, meat or eggs rule in town seems a bit harsh.

I've had enough pasta in pretty Pushkar, so it's time to take my life in my hands and head off to Jaipur...

The Romance of Udaipur

If you close your eyes and picture an exotic 16th century kingdom on a silver lake surrounded by mountains ruled by a powerful Maharana with extravagant tastes, many beautiful wives and hundreds of concubines--that's Udaipur. This place is a romance novel waiting to happen!

I watched the morning come to life from a boat on Lake Pichola. We saw the women washing clothes creating a spectacular riot of color. We cruised by the exclusive Lake Palace Hotel island. The Lake Palace Hotel was formerly the royal Summer Palace, and is where I'll stay on my next visit to Udaipur. We also stopped at Jagmandir Island which was once the Maharana's pleasure palace.

I spent the afternoon at the City Palace complex, which is the largest in Rajasthan. I learned that a Maharana is more powerful than a Maharaja, and that the current Mewar royal family is reportedly the oldest ruling dynasty in the world, with 76 generations of power. Over 22 Maharana have built and added to the City Palace. I even got to see the current Maharani (Queen) leaving the palace in a full on parade. She was in a huge white British car, proceeded by colorful men on horseback. Now that's traveling in style!

Picturing Udaipur

Evening in Udaipur

The fairy tale ending in Udaipur started with drinks at sunset place in the City Palace complex with two fun Scottish girls, Sally and Stephanie, we met on the road a few days ago. Their driver was having car trouble so we gave them a lift to Jodhpur. I've met them for dinner each night since. We had cocktails and watched the sunset on all the palaces of Udaipur.

Then, I took a boat over for a magical diner at the Lake Palace Hotel. The hotel is certainly fit for a Maharana and I felt very at home there! After dinner I was given a great tour of the hotel island by the manager. I wanted to send for my bags and never leave!

The Road to Udaipur

I had originally planned to fly down to Udaipur, but I was talked into going with the driver instead. Of course, this was before I knew that Abid has a death wish. So, off I went for another five hour white-knuckle drive through the countryside.

It was great fun to see the small villages and life outside of India's cities. The wonders never cease. The first thing I saw leaving Jodhpur was a huge tree in the middle of the left lane on a four-lane highway. No warning, just a large tree. Abid explained that the "Neem" tree is special to Hindu's (apparently it helps with chicken pox) and you aren't allowed to cut them down. So, I guess they just paved around it when they expanded the road. Speaking of roads, I was shocked to see women in brightly colored sari's working on road crews. No joke, they were spreading tar and swinging pick axes in pink and yellow dresses! Talk about being over dressed! Abid explained that women in the country work harder than the men.

The country side just got more and more colorful. I think Ringling Brothers got the idea for the circus from the trucks in India. Trucks say "Goods Carriers" on the front and are a riot of color and art. There is fringe hanging, tassels flying, beads swinging... And they are piled a mile high with goods. The buses look similar but say "Public Carriers" and are stuffed with people inside and then more sit on the luggage rack on top. Of course they are all brightly dressed and add to the decor! If you add in the impromptu Hindu temple processions with God's in pick-up trucks followed by dancers, it's a bit like Mardi Gras on the country roads.

We stopped at Ranakpur, one of the largest Jain Temples in India (photo above). This special Hindu temple dates back to 1439 and has well over a thousand differently carved pillars. It's easy to see why it took over fifty years to build!

From Ranakpur we headed over the mountain range that surrounds Udaipur. I told Abid that I get very car sick on the curving roads, which he took to mean the faster he climbed the mountains the better. He honked constantly to make sure that any wildlife in the sanctuary could run before we saw, or hit it. By passing on blind curves and running over anything in our path, we made it to Udaipur in record time. As we entered Udaipur I noticed that we stopped (something we NEVER do) and saw a red light. It was the first stop light I have seen in 15 hours of driving in Rajasthan!

On the Road Again

Sunset Camel Safari

Jumping to Jaisalmer

I was up at sunrise yesterday to make the 5 hour drive to Jaisalmer. Although we all know that I wish sunrise happened later in the day, it was amazing to see the palace glowing in pink as we left Jodhpur!

With Abid driving at the speed of light we made it to the "golden city" of Jaisalmer in record time. It was wonderful to enter the Thar Desert and see a city made of sand appear out of nowhere. Jaisalmer Fort looks like a giant sandcastle. In the afternoon the sunlight turns the old city into a golden color. I had a tour guide to walk around with me because the fort is very alive with small alley ways and aggressive shop keepers -- Abid was scared that I would never find my way back out. So little faith!

My guide, a student of "tourism," was great. We wondered around the fort and then into the old city to see some "Havelis," which are intricately-carved sandstone buildings constructed by wealthy merchants in the 1800's. I also learned that Jaisalmer, founded in 1156, was a major stop on the camel trading route with Central Asia. Real infrastructure improvements however were made during the India-Pakistan Wars in 1965 and 71, because its of Jaisalmer's strategic position one hour from the Pakistan border.

In the afternoon Abid took me out into the desert for a camel safari. We arrived in a village in little straw roofed huts and rode a camel out into the desert dunes to watch the sunset. It was magical! I felt like Lawrence of Arabia! That night we lounged in the desert and listening to local music and watching dancers perform. Sleeping the huts was not exactly luxurious, but it was exciting. I was up again before sunrise for another camel ride. We watched the desert come to life and then made our way back to Jodhpur for the evening. The only way I know that the desert wasn't just a dream is that I'm still trying to get the sand out of my hair!

Riding into Jodhpur

I flew into Jodhpur to meet my driver Abid and begin my Rajasthan tour. The one hour flight was much better than his 14 hour drive down to get me!

Rajasthan Overview

Rajasthan is the land of Maharaja's and exotic legends, and what most travelers want to see in India. The area is known for it's color and this is first thing that strikes me. I can't get enough of the women's beautiful sari's and abundant jewelry. They look like flowers in groups along the street. EVERY woman, no matter how poor is colorfully dressed. The colors in the market are vibrant like the south of France, the homes have a personality too. Rajasthan is truly a delight for the senses! And, although they have no power, they still have Maharaja's (Kings) today. The fairy tale continues...

Jodhpur

Jodhpur, founded in 1459, is known as the blue city, because many of the houses are painted a tranquil blue. Blue used to signify that a Brahmin, the upper class in the caste system, lived in the home, but today others choose blue too. The effect of the sea of blue is reminiscent of a Greek island with out the sea. As a matter of fact, the town sits on the edge of the Thar Desert, so there is a sea of neutral all around.

My favorite place in Jodhpur is Meherangarh (majestic fort), which towers over the city. I spent over three hours wandering around with a fantastic acoustiguide that made me feel like I was one of the Maharaja's wives in the 1800's parading around the halls in amazing attire. Of course, I would be on the second floor experiencing the court from a series of shielded balconies. However, I would not be one of the widows of the Maharaja in 1843, who left their hand prints on the gate as they followed his body and threw themselves on his burning funeral pyre.

The rooms of the palace were romantic and exotic as were the elephant howdahs (carriages), the embroidered tents for making camp in the desert and all the royal trinkets. This is what I came to India to see!

I also visited a Umaid Bhawan Palace, which is a modern palace created in 1929, when the Maharaja's still played a great deal of polo (yes, the pants came from here!), traveled lavishly and generally lived great lives. This was before India Independence. The current Maharaja still lives in the palace, but it is also a swank hotel to pay the bills.

Visiting Jodhpur is a great way to begin the Rajasthan experience!

Rajasthan Plan

Here's my Rajasthan/Uttar Pradesh Plan
For the next 13 days...

Fly from Delhi to Jodhpur
Meet Abid and drive to Jaisalmer, take camel safari
Drive from Jaisalmer to Udaipur
Drive from Udaipur to Pushkar
Drive from Pushkar to Jaipur
Train from Jaipur to Agra
Overnight train from Agra to Varanesi, Dip in Ganges River and celebrate birthday

Fly from Varanesi to the south for the coastal India plan!

Driving Around Delhi

Today was my first day of sightseeing with my new driver Abid. Abid will be Driving Miss DeLisa around India for the next 13 days. God help us both!

We started in Old Delhi at the Red Fort, a sandstone fortress built in the mid 1600's. As usual the traffic outside was completely insane and people selling things and begging followed me to the fort. But, when I walked through the famous Lahore Gate, a symbol of independence for India, and it was immediately calm inside. Even as I passed through the "ladies" bazaar everyone was quiet and respectful. The impressive grounds, including the marble halls where emperors held audiences, lived, or bathed, were very serene. This was the first bit of tranquility I have known in India.

Of course, the next stop was back to pandemonium at the Chandni Chowk, the main shopping bazaar of Old Delhi. As I wandered through the bazaar, I saw the familiar Golden Arches and almost sprinted for McDonald's. I had to settle for a chicken sandwich and fries, because they don't have hamburgers in India. I was glad that Abid was with the car, because it's Ramadan and he is fasting from sunrise to sunset--for a month. Now that's devotion!

Next we hit two sights in New Delhi. Humayun's Tomb, a mid-16th century Mughal architecture complex, was an early inspiration for the Taj Mahal, and is now a World Heritage Site. The elegant grounds and the building were magnificent. The tomb was commissioned by the Persian-born senior wife of the Emperor Humayun.

My favorite stop of the day was the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum. The former house of Indira Gandhi was turned into a fascinating museum about her life and her political career. It's inspirational to see a female leader who had a good family life and devoted herself to public service. Along with political memorabilia and her personal effects, we saw her study (she had Eames chairs!), dining room and living room. It was amazing to see how simply she and her family lived. We also saw the spot where she was assassinated by her guards. How very sad!

Strange sighting of the day -- a group of monkeys walking across the road in New Delhi. Abid claims this is not unusual... I wonder just would be unusual in India!

Holy Cow, I'm in India!

It took 36 hours and two airlines, but I finally made it to India from Cambodia (lesson: do not fly Indian Airlines). The best thing that happened during my travel debacle is that I found a book at the airport called "Holy Cow" written by an Australian woman traveling in India. It got me laughing out loud and ready for Delhi. Well, as ready as anyone can be for Delhi.

I'm used to anarchy on roads, and even the practice of horn blowing instead of blinkers just kind of makes sense here. (Autorickshaws actually have "Horn Please" written on the back, as if anyone had to be asked to blow the horn here!) My first shock on the drive into downtown New Delhi was the cows wandering in the road. They are the only thing that traffic stops for--no one blows the horn at the divine bovines. Everyone just waits for them to decide to move on across eight lanes of traffic. You have to see it to believe it.

As my driver was telling me that the hotel is in a very nice area, we made a U-turn into oncoming traffic, slipped down a dirt road with a dead dog in the middle, and he announced that we'd arrived at the Prince Polonia luxury hotel. I was shown to my room ($22) where it was proudly pointed out that I have toilet paper and soap! I'm living it up in Delhi already!

Taking it all in stride and not wanting to leave the hotel at night, I went to the roof top restaurant for dinner. I met a lovely French airline flight attendant and a couple from Canada who were all on repeat trips to India. They just glowed with excitement telling me about the country and it is contagious!

Wearing my fake wedding ring and a long skirt, I charged down the dirt road this morning to the main bazaar in Paharganj to find a travel agent and plan my trip around Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh (areas of amazing palaces, forts, camels, bazaars, holy cities...). I rounded the corner and stopped cold. I panicked for a minute thinking that if they still snatch women and sell them into slavery anywhere in the world it would be here. And, I'm having a horrible hair day and consequently wouldn't even fetch a good price!

I took a deep breath, plastered a smile on my face and bravely entered the fray. Within no time I felt more secure. I found what I hope is a good travel agent, booked my next two weeks of travel, had chai tea with some nice people and acclimated to the chaos that is India. Seeing the cows mingle with the carts, cars and craziness is starting to seem normal. I think I'm ready for an Indian adventure!

Seeing Siem Reap

For our last day our guide Teng took Paul and I to see some sights around Siem Reap. We visited the floating village of Chong Kneas by boat. The river is home to about 200 Vietnamese refuge families.

Next, we went to a monument to those lost in the Killing Fields. While most of the torture and killing was done near Phnom Penh from 1975-79, Siem Reap also lost thousands in the fields. It was hard to learn about the mass murder of so many Cambodians.

Next stop on our cheerful tour was the Land Mine Museum. I didn't realize that 80 nations including Cambodia still have land mines. There were children without arms and legs around the museum and it just broke my heart to see them!

To end my observations on Cambodia on a more positive note, we met some great people here. Our guide Teng was wonderful and works very hard! We ate dinner with our Aussie friends a couple of nights at our favorite restaurant the Red Piano (think verandas, big rattan chairs and ceiling fans). We invited another Aussie to join us, Darren, who is an engineer on loan to the UN for three months building wells for schools. Hearing about Darren's assignment makes me think about all the good I could do in the world!

I have enjoyed my taste of Cambodia. The Cambodian people are lovely. Although there's an extreme amount of poverty and begging is pretty constant, I feel very safe here. I believe that this country will prosper and develop with the increase in tourism and the hard working nature of the Cambodians! I look forward to visiting again one day.

Phnom Bakheng at Sunset

Assorted Temple Adventures

Ta Prohm -- Jungle Temple

Preah Palilay

Angkor Thom

Angkor Wat

Adventures at the Temples of Angkor

Years ago I saw a TV special on the ancient temples uncovered in the jungle of Cambodia. I vowed that I would climb among the tree roots one day and see it for myself. Another dream's come true!

Fortunately, my New Zealand friend Paul (he starred on this blog feeding some deer in Japan where we met) was headed to Cambodia at the same and we came to explore the Temples at Angkor together. We flew into Siem Reap, Cambodia (town nearest to the temples) and have shared the expenses of a private guide and driver for three days of sight-seeing. Paul found our guide Teng Sreang (Teng_Sreang@yahoo.com www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-sreang) on the internet and he has been with us from airport pick-up to my delivery tomorrow for $45 a sight-seeing day. This is the only way to visit these historic temples!

The Lonely Planet guidebook (the travel bible) devotes 50 pages to the Temples of Angkor. There is more history than I can begin to comprehend, but I truly feel like I have learned a great deal about the Kingdom of Cambodia. The 100 plus temples in the jungle of Cambodia were built between the 9th and 14th centuries AD, by about 25 different Kings. The Khmer empire was huge, at one point stretching from China, through Vietnam and Thailand. An astounding 1 million people lived in one of the temples, Angkor Thom (Great City), in the 1100's. At this same time less than 50,000 people lived in London.

I don't know how to begin to describe the beauty of the temples. Angkor Wat is the most famous and the most impressive with a moat as big as a lake, a long causeway leading to the entrance and then another huge walkway to actually get to the temple. The scale is enormous and awe-inspiring. It's believed that this was a funeral temple created to bury the King, because it is the only temple to face west (the direction of death). This is reportedly the largest religious structure in the world. It is in excellent condition, including its fantastic Bas-reliefs, because it is the only temple that was never left to the elements.

The next most impressive temple complex is Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom is a walled city with a moat, ornamental gates (featured prominently on Angelina Jolie's Tomb Raider), and many amazing temples and terraces. Paul and I met two Australian girls, Alex and Yael, at this temple and they joined us for a walk with our guide into the woods to some deserted temples. This was one of the highlights for me as we saw our first overgrown temple, Preah Palilay. It was magnificent!

We went to countless more exciting temples most celebrating Buddha, and some are still Hindu in both architecture and spirituality. We saw a completely overgrown jungle temple, an island temple, a miniature universe temple, the list goes on. We spent two very full days seeing the best of the Temples at Angkor. We climbed over stones, roots, stairs with 3 inch wide steps that went up to dizzying heights... There are no warning signs or cautions of any kind. The temples are raw and exciting. I felt like Indiana Jones in the Temple of Doom, but Paul pointed out that no one held Indiana's hand over the big puddles. The days alternated between blistering sun and steamy down pours. We persevered through it all. At the end of yesterday, we rode an elephant up Phnom Bakheng, a temple mountain near Angkor Wat, for sunset. It was the perfect end to our temple adventure!