The Great Zimbabwe Monument

Our first stop on Day 4 was The Great Zimbabwe Monument, a World Heritage Site, which gave its name to the country in 1980. We had a guided tour (in the pouring rain) and learned a great deal about the 13-14th century construction of the site and about the life of the king, his 200 wives and the 2,500+ men and women who lived in the walled city. She also told us about their ceremonies of male circumcision and female virginity tests. Harry said these customs still exist in the tribes today!

The Inn at Great Zimbabwe

Day 4 began like a dream. Harry had suprised us the night before by turning into an adorable inn on a hillside. So, after a good nights sleep we were also treated to a lovely full breakfast complete with a stunning view of Lake Kyle. Everything was lush and wild like I picture the country in summer!

About Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe used to be a prosperous country which fed itself and exported food to most of Africa--a success story as a British Colony. The country gained independence in 1980 and Cde Mugabe, the democratically elected leader, has been in power ever since. There is now at least a 50% aids rate, poverty is omnipresent, there is only subsistence farming, and the gas shortage is critical. No gas, no goods, no transportation...

Despite the very grim situation, the countryside is vibrant and full of life. The road are full of people walking, riding donkey carts, waiting for rare buses. They wear colorful clothes and the children smile and wave at us everywhere. My favorite scene is watching the women carry the large bowls and baskets on their head and babies on their back. It's no doubt who the stronger sex is in Zimbabwe!

Harry said he is amazed at the decline he has seen in his three and a half years of visiting on safaris. It seems like such an awful shame to see a nation that was prosperous fall back into despair.

Life in Rural Southern Africa

Day 3 on Safari

The 4:30 am wake up call is just ridiculous in my opinion, but the custom of having a second breakfast (like a Hobbit) is great. We ate like mad during the whole safari. Animal spotting is hard work!

As we were leaving Kruger Park we were rewarded by a fantastic buffalo sighting. We saw a huge herd very close to the road. We had a standoff for quite a while. They don't look like our buffalo at home.

After we left Kruger Park to the north we passed some very rural areas in SA on our way to Zimbabwe. We were fascinated by tribal life. We stopped at a small town before the border crossing for Harry to get provisions, including many containers of gas, and for us to get anything we wanted to drink for the next three days. Harry warned us that goods were not available in Zimbabwe. We soon saw just how grim the situation is in Zimbabwe.

We parked at the border crossing and stepped back in time! This was a sign of things to come. There were long lines of unclean people, intimidation tactics, and bribery attempts all around. Harry was our savior and handled everyone and every obsticle with a smile and cheerful word. It was easy to see that being polite was the best way to navigate the system. For the days to come he continued to be extremely polite to every official at the dozen plus road blocks we encountered and we were never searched. A great example I will try to follow on my travels!

Cozy Evenings in the Park

Kruger Animal Spotting List

Here's what we saw in order of appearance:

Kudu
Buffalo**
wildebeest
Giraffe
Impala
Lions**
Warthog
Water Buck
Zebra
Ostrich
Vervet Monkey
Bush buck
Elephant**
Hippo
Tsessebe (fastest antelope in Africa)
Duiker
Steenbok
Hyenas

**One of the Big Five (most dangerous animals to hunt)

Day 2 Kruger Park South Africa

Day 2 started at 5am! No one told me about this part! We broke camp and were on a game drive by 6:10am. Harry thought we were 10 minutes late (gates to the park open at 6am). I thought it was a miracle!

As we headed into the park Harry's first comment was that we don't stop for antelope. We were hunting for bigger game. It takes concentration and everyone's eyes to spot the animals. Their camouflage is very effective. But, it is so exciting to spot something and yell stop! The more you look the more you find. When we had a sighting Harry would stop and tell us such interesting facts.

For example, elephants are very destructive eaters. We watched them knock over whole trees to eat some roots. You can certainly see their path. The elephant's lifespan is about 65 years. They grind away their teeth eating and only get 6 pair in a lifetime. When the sixth set is gone they will starve to death. Who knew?

We saw a dead elephant covered in vultures, and an elephant came right up to the car and looked like he would charge. It was magnificent and frightening! We also crossed over the Tropic of Capricorn and felt like true explorers!

We made camp that evening in the park again. Harry made a Braai (BBQ) of chicken, corn, butternut squash, etc. It went well with my SA Pinotage. That evening we found the Southern Cross and gazed at all the different constellations while we listened to the elephants eating and hyenas barking. It was a magical night in the African bush. I even slept outside under the stars!

We're Supposed to Do What?

Day 1 of the Great Safari

As you can imagine, I led the charge in group bonding! We quickly learned that Harry did not talk while driving, but that he did answer questions. No problem there! I sat up front for the next 8 days and asked him to explain everything we passed. Only once did he say the crop has to be over a couple of inches for to tell what it is. He was a driving encyclopedia of animal and plant life, history and economics, language and customs...

We passed towns, tribal lands and diamond mines on our way to Kruger. We watched the scenery change over our 7 hour drive and eventually we went through the Drakensburg Mountains down into the valley and entered the famous Kruger National Park.

After an interesting tent pitching lesson, we hopped on a cool safari wagon and took a night game drive with a park ranger. We had some great animal sightings with spot lights in pitch black setting. The best was a pair of lions walking along in the grass. We got back to camp to a warm dinner by the campfire. We learned that Harry cooks and we clean-up each meal. The campsite in the middle of Kruger was dead quiet by 10pm and it was a surreal feeling to be in the park surrounded by game held at bay by one small electric fence!

Off on Safari

Safari Overview
The safari visits Kruger National Park in SA, The Great Zimbabwe Monument, Chipengali and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and the Makgagedi Sanctuary in Botswana. I was supposed to fly out early at Victoria Falls to catch my flight to Dubai, but I soon realized that I'd rather finish the safari than shop in Dubai! Yet another fun detour!

The People
Our guide Harry, actually Hercules is his real name, drove our little group about 2,500 miles in 8 days and answered at least that many questions. He cooked our meals by the campfire and kept us running on a mightly schedule across southern Africa. In other words, he's a saint!

Ute, from Germany was the most quiet and easy going of the group. God bless her! She had been working and living with a host family in Cape Town before joing the safari. She had a great attitude and was always up for anything!

Robert, also from Germany, was fresh from a work/study program in Namibia. He was as inquesitive as I was and could always be found talking to a stranger. He is a triathelete and was the most active of the group. I've never seen someone eat that much and stay so thin!

Stephanie, from Los Angeles, just came from visiting her boyfriend in Cape Town and was on a 3 month around the world tour. She is off to Asia next. Stephanie is extremely bright and fun to talk with. She lacked my vast camping experience (Girl Scouts in middle school), and was used to the creature comforts, not the creatures. We were on the same page!

We all piled into the Bundu Safari van (www.bundusafaris.com)with our trailer of camping gear and away we went...

Going on Safari

After a lovely day in Cape Town, this afternoon I flew over the Johnesburg to get ready to go on Safari. There was a snafu with my hostel room when I arrived, so I ended up in the lap of luxury with a beautiful hotel suite for the night! A fabulous tub is the perfect way to get ready for the bush!

I will be in the bush, literally camping, for the next week. Hopefully, I will get to post pictures of the Big 5 when I return to civilization!

Weaving Through the Wineland

To celebrate the 4th of July, I took a Cape Wine Tour with 7 other international wine enthusiasts. There were two different group trip options. On one they reportedly hose down the van afterward, and on mine the goal is to learn a little something while sampling the winelands. I made sure the others from my hostel, Joanna, Sarah and my new roommate Pete, brought plenty of water and crackers. So, we were set for a day of fun!

Our trip covered three cape wine regions: Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl. It only took us about 40 minutes to reach the first stop in Stellenbosch, Villiera. Our tour guide had a true passion for wine and took us through the winery like a pro. We learned that the winery was started by two cousins (a grape grower and a winemaker). They were soon joined by another Grier family member who heads up the sales team. Sound familiar?

At Villiera they make both still wines and Method Cap Classic (champagne). We met the winemaker who was a character and a couple of local women working on the very small sparkling bottling line. My favorite of the wines we tasted in their traditional tasting room was a delicious Sav Blanc.

Next we were off to Simonsig, which was a lovely vineyard set on the rolling hillside of Simonsberg Mountain. This was an extra winery visit for our group because I showed our guide my Gallo recommendation list and asked to squeeze in another one. It was an exciting tour and our outdoor tasting began with a ceremonial "sabrage" where the top of a Cuvee Royale (Champagne) bottle was cut off with a sword! Apparently this is a Russian word for a French tradition. This and the other wines we tasted were fabulous, including a spectacular Syrah and a "Tiara" (LOVE the name), which is a blend of 4 of the 5 Bordeaux varietals.

Feeling no pain, we then drove around the town of Stellenbosch. Stellenbosch, called the Oak City because of all the magnificent trees, is dominated by a large university and some grand Dutch architecture. It was the perfect sunny day to take it all in.

Next, we headed over the mountain pass to Tokara. Tokara, a five year old winery, was started by a chef from Johannesburg. The winery is simply spectacular! The very modern building design featured the tasting room above the glass enclosed steel tanks. A beautiful restaurant was down below, but alas was not open for lunch.

The name Tokara is not yet licensed and the wines produced there are called "Zondernaam." Zondernaam translates to "has no name" and was found on an old map of the original farm. My favorite was an 04 Zondernaam Chenin Blanc. It was sunshine in a glass!

It was now definitely time for lunch. We stopped at a farm for a hearty lunch and more toasting. Then it was on into the valley of Franschhoek. The village of Franschhoek was splendid. I wish I had a night to spend in one of the many quest houses. It's no wonder why this is such a popular weekend get-a-way spot from Cape Town. We stopped at an adorable chocolate factory and the French Huguenot Monument to take in the scenic views. None of us wanted to leave Franschhoek, but the next winery sounded great and more food waited.

Next we visited the Fairview winery located on the southwest slopes of Paarl Mountain. This fourth generation winery is currently run by a colorful character, Charles Back. The vineyards look like perfectly combed carpets on the hill side and the estate has old world charm. They have a gourmet shop, bakery, restaurant and a bunch of peacocks running loose on the grounds! Spectacular cheese tastings are their specialty. In addition to some tasty single vineyards, Pinotage Blends, and Spice Route wines, they also produce a very fun line called "Goats do Roam." Apparently there was some mischief and the goats on the estate were let loose in the vineyard. They found that the goats had good palates and created a special blend from the grapes they ate that day. There was a great controversy with the name, which turned into a PR dream judging by the framed placements!

A fun day was had by all! I felt right at home in the Cape Winelands with the many tour options, good areas maps, formal public tasting rooms and supporting accommodation/restaurant options. This was a very different experience than my trip to Mendoza. Argentina's wine region is like a diamond in the rough by comparison. Cheers!

Township Tour

Sunday morning was the best time to take the Township tour in Cape Town. A small group of us rode in a minibus with our guide, Blackie (he has a twin brother called Whitey--I'm not kidding), who took us through two different "townships" or shanty communities just outside of Cape Town. He explained that during Apartheid the government decided where the laborers would live and under what conditions. They are appauling now and I can't imagine what they looked like with even less. More distressing is that half of Cape Town's population lives in these conditions. Despite the poverty, on Sunday morning the residents were all dressed for church. People were walking for as far as the eye can see to go to church.

We went to a Baptist Church service, and I was moved by the spirit. The service lasts three hours (10am-1pm) and everyone seems to have a part. The junior choir sung and signed a hymn and many lay people spoke. They spoke partially in English and partially in their native tongue. Our guide's father was the preacher and he lives behind the church with his family.

Those who weren't going to church were preparing BBQ on the mainstreets. We saw someone kill a sheep on the side of the rode and prepare it for Sunday lunch. Everything smelled so good I wanted to stop for Sunday dinner!

View From Table Mountain

The one must-do thing in Cape Town is a trip up Table Mountain. Table Mountain is the dominant point in the Cape Town-scape. The large flat-top mountain watches over Cape Town and creates a magical feeling in the city. The other mountains in the range like Lion's Head also contribute to the feeling that this town is other worldly.

I took the cool cable car up to the top and brought a picnic lunch to enjoy the view. You can see all the way down to the Cape of Good Hope, with the Atlantic on one side and the Indian Ocean (or False Bay) on the other. The city sparkled down below, and I could see the posh beach community I would like to live in one day!

A Night on the Town

Of course, I needed to give the Cape Town nightlife a try just for comparison purposes. I went out with two women from the hostel one Canadian traveling around Africa and a woman from Colorado at the end of her around the world trip. We had a fabulous dinner at a place called Greens, that easily could have been located in NYC--very chic. Then we headed to Long Street the center of nightlife for travelers.

We went to a new nightclub we heard about, Miam Miam. Confronted with a red velvet rope and long line outside I tried the NYC tactic of a little cash to the bouncer and we sailed in. Life is good when you are "on the list" Ha! It is a very reserved scene compared to my recent outings in South America. It reminded me of a bar in LA--it was a beautiful crowd. We quickly found several guys to visit with, two from SA and one American who is teaching in Cape Town now. We proceeded to have a great time dancing til dawn! Although it's not the Tango, I remembered how much I like to swing too.

A Journey to the Cape of Good Hope

Yesterday, I had a true day of discovery on my BAZ Bus Cape Peninsula tour! Ten of us headed out with our driver and guide to get to the bottom of it all. I should have known it would be an adventure when I saw the trailer filled with bikes that was hitched to the back of the minibus!

Our first stop after leaving Cape Town through all the posh beach communities was Hout Bay Harbor. We boarded a boat to Duiker Island which is a Cape Fur Seal sanctuary, home to thousands of seals. We saw hundreds of seals sunning themselves on this "Bachelor" rock. The majority of the seals are male and waiting breeding age (8-12 yrs) when they will go to the nearby breeding grounds. The large numbers of seals are one of the reasons for the high shark population in this area. Sharks love to eat seals!

Bruce, our guide, told us that there is only about one death a year from Great White Sharks in this area, but there are about 40 deaths a year from lion attacks, 1,000 a year by Hippos, and a death every six minutes caused by taxis.

We stopped at nearby Chapmans Peak for scenic views of Hout Bay before heading over to the suburbs of Simon's Town on the west coast of False Bay. False Bay got it's name because the seacaptains would often get confused and think that Cape Town was on this bay. Wrong!

Our next stop was "The Boulders" an African Penguin colony. About 3,000 penguins live on the beach and the brush in this nice suburban area. We could walk very close to them on a series of board walks through the breeding grounds. They were cuter than you can imagine! They are very clumsy on land but are built for speed in the water. They mate for life and I saw them sitting on eggs in their nests (they take turns guarding the eggs) and running on the beach. They used to be called Jackass Penguins because of the noise they make. I wanted to take some home!

We then headed to Cape Point national park. We had a picnic lunch and learned a lot at the Visitor's Center before hiking up to the lighthouse for magnificent views. Seeing the convergence point for two ocean currents was very cool! The Atlantic and its cold water plant and animals and False Bay which is warm water and brings different flora and fauna. While in the national park we saw baboons, zebras, bontelook (white tailed antelope), and a Southern Right whale off the coast.

We rode bikes from the Cape Point Lighthouse down to the Cape of Good Hope its self. It's a good thing that I conquered my fear of biking on the Red Bicyclette trip to France last summer! I managed to stay on the bike despite the confusion of cars driving on the wrong side of the road! I stopped at one point to watch some baboons playing on the beach and they came right up to me. Their mannerisms are frighteningly human.

It was a great day of learning about SA history and seeing amazing natural beauty. The animals, flowers, and rocky beaches were heavenly! The bright sunshine made the whole day a photo op! I think I took more pictures here than anywhere I've visited so far.

Cape of Good Hope

African Penguins!

Into Africa

I took off for Cape Town, South Africa just after 8pm on my new favorite airline Malaysian Air. It was a fabulous 7 hour ride across the Atlantic!

--I was upgraded and got to ride upstairs in the massive plane
--The flight attendants were beautiful in traditional long dresses
--I was seated by a handsome man from Buenos Aires
--The food and wine were amazing
--I watched the movie Sahara (horrible but fit my African theme nicely)
--We had a magical sunrise as we approached South Africa

I arrived at 9am local time and found my new home-away-from-home, The Backpack www.backpackers.co.za, very easily. Within an hour my safari, and local excursions were booked with the help of Mary in the Africa Travel Center.

I jumped right in with a trip to Robben Island in the afternoon. The island houses the now famous former prison where Nelson Mandela was kept. The most moving thing about the tour was that our guides were former prisoners. The first hand account of the conditions took on a whole new meaning. Also, the view of Cape Town from the water was spectacular!

Reading my thoughts on South America

My impressions of South America were influenced by the books I read while traveling. I learned from my friend Brian years ago to select books set in the country where I'm traveling. This was quite difficult with my itinerary. I brought about nine books with me and still need to buy a few more on the road. However, the selection in English can be very slim and expensive overseas.

In Brazil, I read "Eleven Minutes" by Paulo Coelho. It's the story of a poor girl from the countryside of Brazil who gets "discovered," while on a trip to Rio, to become a famous dancer. She goes to Switzerland and eventually becomes a prostitute. She bringings a Brazilian perspective on all her decisions. While an extreme story, you can definitely see an adventurous side to the South Americans. They make it a priority to enjoy life.

My most moving read was "The Motorcycle Diaries" by Ernesto "Che" Guevara. Reading such a profound and entertaining travel diary by a famous Argentinean while traveling around his homeland was incredible. Learning about Che and Alberto's escapades, and their 24 yr old's impressions helped me to understand more about the roots of Che's politics.

I was also astounded at the level and proximity of the rich and the incredibly poor in all the cities I visited. The divide is very famous in Rio complete with tours of the slums. In Mendoza, the magnificent wineries were totally surrounded by poverty like I've never seen before. In Buenos Aires, the unbelievable slums are on the outskirts of the city. However, the political unrest is represented in the middle of the action by demonstrations and strikes everyday. I saw countless workers picketing and drawing crowds. While I was in BA I was aware of a baggage handlers strike at the airport, a local bus strike, and the Colon Theatre workers went out on strike which prevented me from seeing an amazing Ballet on my last night in town!

Since I don't plan to become a revolutionary, I will close with how excited I am to have experienced the warmth and hospitality that is South America. The local people seem to take life in stride and are committed to living each day to the fullest. They are very proud of their culture and appreciate those who come to visit. It was wonderful to learn to relax more into their comfortable lifestyle.

My biggest regret was that I did not visit Peru which seemed to be a big favorite with most travelers. Also, a trip to the Amazon in either Peru or Brazil is a must for the future. And then there is Chile, and Patagonia... Needless to say I will be back again!

Back in BA

I resumed big city life in Buenos Aires for my last three days in South America. My primary objective was to obtain a visa to enter China in August. I had such good luck with the Russian Embassy in BA that I decided to take on China. I found that my inability to speak either Spanish or Chinese made things go much quicker. They just gave up, and I sailed through the process in record time!

Now on to the fun part. I decided to devote myself to the Tango for three days. When in Buenos Aires...

Four lessons with dreamy and talented Ismael, two nights Tangoing into the wee hours, one pair of to-die-for shoes, and another Tango Show at Cafe Tortoni later I am completely hooked. Mel swears that I'm a natural, and I credit the 21 years I've followed Steve around the dance floor! Or, perhaps it's just that I would follow Mel anywhere.

The point of the Tango is to feel and move, and NOT to concentrate or anticipate -- this is ironic since it's also the goal of my RTW adventure!

Mendoza Meandering

I am delighted that I got to spend five days enjoying Mendoza. It's a very welcoming city, filled with warm people who enjoy nature. It reminded me of Denver, probably because of the proximity to the Andes Mtns and great skiing. Although Mendoza is located in a desert, they have a strange open drainage system (which is treacherous for small children, animals and tourists) all around the city to keep things green and cheerful.

Independence Plaza is the centerpiece of town and includes a Modern Art Museum and a theater. Four other squares radiate outward, each with their own charm. My favorite was the Spanish Plaza which was decorated with handpainted ceramic tiles. Anja and I went to a open air market there, and I didn't want to leave it was so charming. The lovely squares are topped only by Mendoza's large parque. It was simply gorgeous. Like NY's Central Park there was a zoo, a carousel, a large lake and many beautiful tree-lined paths. On Saturday, we spent a beautiful morning exploring the parque before the afternoon adventure...

Aerial View of the Andes

My new favorite excursion is paragliding. It's the most exciting way to see a new area! Anja and I headed up one of the mountains in the first Andes range, and we both agreed that the 45 minute harrowing trip up the mountain, in a 4x4 over huge rocks hanging on the edge of the cliff, was much more frightening than taking a running jump off the mountain!

Paragliding in Mendoza was very different than Rio, much more acrobatic. My ride was at sunset and the view of the snowcapped Andes with a pink and red background was heavenly. But, we didn't just glide down taking in the scenery. My adorable pilot let me steer and took me for a rollercoaster ride!

I wonder how you get a paragliding pilot's license? These fun guys have the best job in the world!

Mendoza Hostel Lagares

My home in Mendoza is special enough to warrant an entry all its own! Five friends from Buenos Aires came to Mendoza to open the perfect hostel and it's called Lagares (www.hostellagares.com.ar Corrientes 213).

I received 5 star service from these friendly folks. Sebastian immediately understood my serious interest in wine and mapped out a logical schedule for my visits. Mariana, a mom-to-be, called the wineries on my list and booked two days of visits and had a rental car delivered to the hostel. Who knew you had to have a reservation for a private tour? No dropping by wineries unannounced in Argentina! Damian, who studied wine and dates Eugenia our tour guide at Nieto Senetiner, gave me expert directions and helpful tips. And, Javier set Anja and I up with his friends to paraglide. There were even traditional Argentine meals cooked on the weekends, and Javier got out the guitar and had everyone singing by the end of the evenings.

I´ve heard of the Argentine custom of passing the Mate (the strong tea the whole country drinks CONSTANTLY from cute little pots through silver straws) around for your friends to drink. Mariana spent most of the evenings giving everyone a taste and generally making the international group feel Argentine for our stay in Mendoza!

Another Taste of Argentina´s Wine Country

I didn´t taste enough of Argentina´s great wines yesterday, so I'm back at it today! My German friend from Buenos Aires, Anja Tiedge, arrived just as I was having my coffee con leche this morning and she decided to join me in wine country. I warned her about the day of wine speak, but she thought she could take it.

It was much better having a navigator, and having the benefit of many directional mistakes yesterday. We found our first winery, Bodegas Chandon, with ease (well only one wrong turn and a u-turn off the highway onto a stone path through a vineyard). We had heard that the Chandon winery was a little self important and we found just the opposite. We were greeted very kindly by the guards and our tour guide seemed geniunely glad to see us. Our guide, Tatiana, was wonderful. She did not usually give tours in English and yet her English was superb. The first stop on the tour was the grape receiving area, and I was very impressed with the signs they had to describe how each varietal brought different taste qualities to the wine. It made the blending process very easy to understand. We had a great tour and a very thorough explanation of the two methods they use to make sparkling wine, why they are different and then we tasted the results in the lovely tasting room. The place exuded quality, and we enjoyed our time with Tatiana very much!

Next Anja and I made our way to the Nieto Senetiner winery. We arrived through a romantic old tree-lined driveway. The guards here were welcoming and we were allowed to wait alone for our guide outside on the spectacular grounds. The country style house made with adobe was completely surrounded by flowers (no small feat in the desert). Behind the owner´s house there were clay tennis courts with a magnificent view of the Andes. I wanted to move in really badly.

Our tour guide at Nieto Senetiner (which is a combination of the two names of the founding families--one Spanish and one Italian), was Maria Eugenia. Eugenia is the girlfriend of one of our hostel owners, Damian, who also studied wine. Eugenia first took us through the vineyards near the winery and then we followed the wine making process through the winery. It is the off season so many areas were under construction. They have almost completed a new restaurant, guest quarters, and tasting room. We ended the tour with a perfect tasting out on the grounds of the vineyard. We stood in the shadow of the Andes Mountains and had among others a wonderful Syrah and Malbec. Eugenia was fantastic and we left the splendid grounds feeling like we had just visited a friend´s house.

We immediately found a restaurant, called Los Troncos, on the town square in Lujan de Cuyo. It was an all-you-can-eat buffet and we wanted to spend the whole afternoon eating. However, after several plates we made our way to our last winery.

The trip to Catena Zapata was very difficult. The completely unmarked roads were basically stone paths. I kept expecting to end up in someone´s yard. We had to ask directions in Spanish several times and that is always fun. Then all of a sudden we came upon this amazing Mayan Pyramid in the middle of an extremely poor area. Getting past the guard here was tremendously difficult--a lessor woman would have left in defeat.

The Catena Zapata was stunning. However the tour and tasting were cold and uninspiring. They focused on selling cases and it was the only winery I've visited who charged for tasting. The final straw is that the particular wines we were allowed to taste were not as impressive in my opinon as some I had in Buenos Aires. However, the circular cellar with 4,000 barrels and a glass tasting room was something to see. They were having a wine luncheon and I wanted to invite myself to join the fun! This was also the only winery who emphasised their medals and scores by Robert Parker.

It was a wonderful day in Argentina´s wine country! I'm now a major Malbec fan. I look forward to stocking my wine cooler at home in New York with all the new wines I tasted. Cheers!

Bodegas Chandon-Makin' Bubbly

Nieto Senetiner-Estate, Vineyard, Tasting

Catena Zapata

A Taste of Argentina

Yesterday afternoon I flew up to Mendoza in the heart of Argentina´s wine country to spend a few days sampling the best of Argentina! Thanks to Jeff Friedman at Gallo, I was equipped with a list of great wineries to visit. The staff at my new hostel were also extremely helpful in calling all the wineries to create a two day schedule of private visits, in English, in a geographical order that makes sense.

I was off this morning in my little rental car (thrilled that my Dad taught me to drive on a standard) heading south of Mendoza into the wine region called Lujan de Cuyo, which according to all the banners in town is celebrating it´s 150 year history. I got lost as I entered wine country, but I had plenty of time and enjoyed seeing more. For those who think I sound like a wine geek sometimes (Norm), here´s where you should tune out and wait for the next entry...

My first stop was the Norton Bodega, which was founded in 1895. This historic winery is now owned by a member of the Swarovski family from Austria. I was first struck by the secuity gates and guards. You would think I was visiting a National Defense Agency rather than a winery, but I soon found that all of the wineries had high security.

I parked and rounded the corner (with my personal guard escort) and stopped short at the view. The vineyards seem to stretch out and touch the snowcapped Andres Mountains. It was unbelieveable! The Norton tasting room was lovely with water fountains, natural stone and ivy-covered staircases leading up to an even better view. My guide was one of three professional tour guides they have in the off season, and they add two more during the high season. The tour was wonderful. The winery combines charming touches like the old tile-covered cement tanks and modern technology. You feel the prestige in a very nice way.

My favorite wine was a Privato blend (40 malbec, 30 cab, 30 merlot). They were quick to point out the 91 point Wine Spectator score! It was a very professional operation.

My next stop was a stark contrast. Dolium, is a very modern and innovative winery. I was given a tour and tasting by the owner Ricardo Giadorou. Then I had the pleasure of joining him and his staff for lunch upstairs in an open room with a magnificent view of wine country. It was a long lovely lunch and I appreciated the personal attention. Ricardo´s father started the winery 8 years ago in his retirement years. Since his father passed away in January, Richardo now runs the operation. He had previously spent 4 years in the US in sales. Now his job has changed quite a bit. It was fascinating to hear his plans for the future, including a bed and breakfast on the property. It would be a wonderful place to stay...

Armed with a new map and an excellent book on the bodegas of Argentina, I set off to find La Septima Codorniu. My guide Paula was waiting for me at the door with a traditional Argentine kiss (one cheek only). She was adorable. This is the 7th winery of the Codorniu group. it is a beautiful structure designed to reflect the surroundings. It is simple yet impressive with a fantastic outdoor space for entertaining. The views of the vineyards and the Andes were also stunning. I enjoyed going into the special barrel room which had humidifiers above the barrels and felt very cool. I tasted several wonderful Malbecs and had to buy one. I will have to drink it quickly--I can´t carry it around the world.

My last visit of the day was arranged by Ricardo at Dolium. He made an appointment for me with Mariela to tour the Bodega Ruca Malen. The former winemaker at the Chandon winery here in Argentina, Jean Pierre Thibaud, started this winery very recently. Although in his 80´s, he apparently has a very colorful personality and is very active in all operations at the winery. Ruca Malen is "a wine sparkled by a legend." The lovely story about an Indian Araucan woman and a spell from the gods is a marketers dream. This was also the first tour guide who tasted through the wines with me. I thoroughly enjoyed the visit.

After a full day of fun, I managed to find my way home again. This is no small feat considering the total lack of street signs in Argentina´s wine country. However, the road to Chile was clearly marked, and I was very tempted to make another side trip! There is always tomorrow...

Norton Winery and View From Tasting Room

Ricardo and Me at Dolium

Everyday in BA

I thought I´d share some random thoughts on life in BA:

Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. The average ride is about $3. Also, the taxis pull over to the right no matter where you are standing. Subways and buses are very easy to use and cost less than 50 cents!

I don´t know how everyone in BA stays so thin. Their diet is Italian food or red meat late at night, and there is a bread and pasty shop on absolutely every corner. A particular favorite is dolce de leche--basically carmelized sugar which they put on everything!

Everyone is well dressed, much like in Italy or Spain.

International mail is insanely expensive. It cost almost as much to send my new clothes home (by the cheapest means possible) as it did to buy them. A valuable lesson.

Movie theaters are on a grand scale here. The new Recoleta Village 11 is about 3 times the size of the average large screen theater at home. The tickets are also for assigned seats, so there´s no need to arrive early. Tickets were about $5 for adults.

On Wednesday all museums in BA are free and movies are half price.

There is plenty of American TV and movies. CSI is on right now in English, with Spanish subtitles.

The internet-phone establishments are full of locals. Computers and cell phones are not affordable for the masses. The computers that are available at the hostels are ancient!

BA has thousands of dog walkers, similar to NYC. However, the scooping laws either don´t exist or are largely ignored. It´s important to look where you are walking! And the parks are overrun with stray cats. Walking by one park block in the Palermo I counted over 30 cats.

When a restaurant is "free" it means a buffet!

There seem to be even more McDonald´s than at home. They have the golden arches, but are usually called McCafe. Dessert, pastries and coffee are very popular.

Unlike NYC, BA sleeps. Things close up in the evening at about 10 or 11 and Sunday is truly a day off because most stores are closed.

More Bueno Barrios

Yesterday, I bundled up and set out to explore the neighborhood of San Telmo. Sunday is the big market day, and the artistic little barrio was a buzz. There were many antique stores, art galleries and handicrafts to see. They even had Tango dancing in the square. I didn´t want to leave! Luckily, I found a photographer selling fantastic photos of Tango dancers from interesting angles. I will frame a couple for my apt so that I can continue to dream of my potential Tango career.

Today, I am thrilled to report that we had a sunny day in Buenos Aires. I didn´t think it was possible after 5 straight days of drizzle. It was glorious! It was the perfect day to walk around the colorful La Boca Barrio. Anja, Jasmine and I went down to explore the portside neighborhood, and ended up hopping from cafe to cafe chasing the sun.

La Boca is the first port area of BA. It´s original inhabitants were mainly industrious Italian immigrants. They built their houses with wood and zinc and used the leftover colorful ships paint. There are still several blocks of charming, brightly colored houses by the water and many cafes to sample! The neighborhood is a center for artists, Tango and futbol. We had a fabulous sunny day basking in the local color!

Colorful La Boca

Sailing Away to Uruguay

In celebration of my first day without rain in Argentina, I decided on the spur of the moment to take a day trip to Uruguay. Thanks to my friend Holly´s recommendation, I went down to the port after breakfast and caught a boat going one hour up river to a historic town Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay. It was a lovely day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage site.

I met three American grad students on the boat ride, and they talked me into renting scooters to tour around the island. I was astounded that the man let us take the motorbikes when we clearly had NO idea how to drive them! He obviously had no sense! We almost did serious damage to a palm tree (people came to check on us) and there was one incident with a curb jumping out in Jill´s way. However, we managed to whip around what used to be a quiet little town without killing anyone!

We spent the day touring the old city ruins, climbing the lighthouse, and of course there was shopping for handicrafts. We had a wonderful lunch, with a great bottle of wine from Uruguay, in what appeared to be one of the nicest restaurant´s in town. The bill for the four of us was $18 US! It is easy to see why people from Buenos Aires come over to spend the weekend here.

Forever Tango

I have found my next career--Tango Dancer! I plan to grow a few more inches, dye my hair black, wear only red dresses and perform the most beautiful dance in the world!

A group of us went to a Tango Show last night, and I am truly inspired. They danced the Tango, sang the Tango, and played the Tango. It was in a small nightclub downstairs in a popular restaurant and they did a two act show. There were several couples dancing with such passion and style that it made your heart beat faster! The men had long black hair worn in a single braid and the women had dresses slit to their waists. The songs and music were also extremely moving. You did not need to understand Spanish to get the story!

Next step, Tango lessons! Perhaps some private instruction...

Moving Downtown BA

After a plush couple of days staying in the Recoleta in my own room, I have changed hostels to get back in the thick of things. I am now in the Milhouse (www.milhouse.com) Hostel which is the famous party place in South America. The hostel is very well run with 157 guests on 3 floors and an active tour and travel desk. There is always a tour or activity on the board, and people around to sit and talk with. Just after I arrived they had a luncheon BBQ and I met a friend, Jasmine, from Rio and off we went.

Today, I explored the Central Barrio. It feels a bit like Washington DC to me. At the center of town is a large Obelisk (like the Washington Monument), set on a park (like the mall), and many of the street names and buildings have political significance. Their seat of the National Government, Casa Rosada, is a large pink building which stands out among the surrounding conservative architecture and parks with large palm trees. A former president of Argentina (back in 1873), ordered the building to be painted pink to symbolize the union of two political parties. One party used red and the other white as their colors. Talk about good PR!

I also went to Argentina´s ¨Broadway¨ Avenida Corrientes. The Producers and The Graduate are showing along with several interesting looking Argentine shows. I´m still in search of the Ballet House, because I saw a billboard for a program in honor of 100 years of Balanchine. Ballet tickets are not the usual request at the hostel. They are more focused on walking tours, dance parties and Futbol games!

Casa Rosada

The Barrios of Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is an elegant city even in the winter rain! BA is divided into barrios or neighborhoods each with its own personality. I plan to get to know them all!

For my first two days, I'm staying in the Recoleta, the most distinguished neighborhood. If this were New York, I'd be uptown. The name Recoleta comes from the Barefoot Monks of Recoleta who lived here in the early 18th century. The area has a French feel with wide tree lined boulevards. There must be a rule that you have a green thumb or a gardner to live in the apartments with balconies, because they are all filled with lush green plants. Even in the winter there is a tropical feel.

I've visited the Buenos Aires Design Center, the National Museum of Fine Arts, and my favorite the Recoleta Cemetery. The above ground tombs in the cemetery are wonderful. I made the mandatory pilgrimage to Eva Peron's grave. A crowd was gathered to pay tribute. I also found time to do some shopping in the chic boutiques. I bought a dress, and showed great restraint to stop there.

I ventured over to the next barrio, the Palermo, to see some of the city's parks and visit the Evita Museum. Although there seemed to be a bit of revisionist history, I enjoyed learning more about Eva Peron and seeing some of her great clothes.

I'm headed out now for a nice grilled dinner. I feel so at home in this carnivorous culture. I've never had so much meat. I'm in heaven!

Evita!

Brazil view of the Iguazu Falls 

The Wonder of Waterfalls

Yesterday, I flew inland to the spot where Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina meet. Two rivers also merge in this heavenly spot and the majesty of Iguazu Falls is positively breathtaking. I landed on the Brazilian side and took a two hour walk to see the full view of the Iguazu Falls. Iguazu is the Indian word for big water, and big it is!

As I walked along absorbing the view, I finally understood why the American artist Frederick Church was so fascinated by waterfalls in both North and South America. The combination of delicate beauty and blunt force is awe-inspiring. If you add in the exotic subtropical jungle setting it is truly captivating. This would be an excellent time to be an artist, poet, or cinematographer to try to capture the scene for others to experience! I just took a million photos...

Today I spend the day on the Argentina side where you can get close to the waterfalls. I even took an adventure speed boat ride under the falls to feel the power and basically just get drenched. (Useful camping item number one was the rain poncho I packed! Also, thanks to Julie and Tom for the quick drying trail shirt set.) We also did a jungle tour in a topless Hummer where we learned about the flora in the area. There are 47 types of orchids in the park and they bloom in Sept-October. Now that´s the time to be here!

Iguazu Falls from Argentina 

Passion Flower in Iguazu Falls Park 

Blame it on the Bosso Nova

It was befitting that my last night in Brazil was their St. Valentine's Day. I have completely fallen in love with Rio!

Was it the beautiful Bosso Nova in the club Visconde, the ultimate combination of city and beach lifestyles, the swinging samba beat in Santa Teresa, the fish and banana stew, the lush forest with monkeys and orchids in the wild, the fresh fruit for breakfast, the wanton abandon on the dance floor, the caipirinha's, dinner at 11pm...? Or, is it simply the priority that those living in or visiting Rio place on passion in all things?

I'm already looking forward to returning to Rio one day!

Paragliding over Rio with Renato 

Riding High Over Rio

Find the best way to spend my last day in Rio was a breeze. I went paragliding for a bird's eye view of my new favorite city. Renato Janssens, an adorable brazilian who owns a paragliding business (www.paraglideinrio.com.br), picked me up at Casa 6 and off we went to the launch site in Tijuca National Park.

First, I signed away the liability of my life, including the declaration that I had taken the instruction class, which consided of Renato saying "when we start down the launch, run and don't sit down." Then we sat together all hooked up looking straight down a mountain in the forest waiting for the right wind. Just as I began to question my sanity it was time to take off. After a scary running start, the view of the mountains, the city of Rio, the welcoming Christ the Redeemer, and the magnificient beaches was well worth it!

We floated above Rio taking it all in and taking lots of photos. I enjoyed the free flying sensation, the cute Brazilian whispering in my ear, and the brilliant landscape. We landed without a hitch in a little park next to the beach. Just like Rio, it was all very exciting!

How Many Reais?

Week One -- Under Budget!

The Tally is in... I've spent approximately $600 dollars (Or about 1,550 Reais). Also interesting to note, not one credit card charge -- I'll bet AmEx and Mastercard are sending out a search party.

This includes:
Several tours
Live entertainment
An excursion on bus and ferry to an island
The required purchases of beachwear and Havaianas (Brazilian must-have sandals)
Taxis around Rio
Internet use
Rooms shared with others
All the food and drink I could try...

Thank Heaven that lying on the beach, people watching, and making new friends are free!

Sailing the Costa Verde with Karol 

A Grande Time in Ilha Grande

For a brief break in the perfection that is Ipanema, I joined Karol, my Irish roommate from Casa 6, on a trip down the Costa Verde to Ilha Grande (www.ilhagrande.com.br). We took a bus for a couple of hours, walked a mile with the backpacks and hopped on a schooner for another hour to a rustic tropical paradise.

Ilha Grande is predominantly lush green forest dotted with beautiful beaches surrounding a quaint town square. It's very casual and peaceful here, a huge contrast from Rio!

Our hostel is on the water with a magnificent view and plenty of hammocks from which to enjoy it. I was thrilled with getting our own bathroom, until I learned that the hot water is "spotty" but what can you expect for about $8 each including breakfast? My standards are drastically shifting as I ease into travel mode.

Today we took an all day trip to a beach called Lopes Mendes, which rivals any I've seen in the world so far. It is said to be the best in Brazil. We had to hike through the forest for 20 min. to reach it and were rewarded with an incredible day. I was sorry to take the boat back just before sunset. I could have stayed there in a hut on that beautiful beach indefinitely.

I've met some very fun people and plan to go back to Rio with them tomorrow, if I can tear myself away from Ilha Grande!

Off to Lopes Mendes

Cruising to the jungle beach 

Ilha Grande Time 

Favela Fascination

Favela's are the poorest areas in Rio. We'd call them slums. They originated because of a Brazilian law allowing you to assume ownership of public land if you build a house on it and live there for 5 years. The poor build make-shift houses up the side of hills and it grows... 20% of Rio's population of 6 million live in the hundreds of favela's. They are typically run by drug lords who sell drugs freely in these areas through bribing the police. It's actually quite well organized chaos.

I took a tour of 2 favel's with a great guide today (Madson, www.favelatour.com.br 3322-2727). We learned how the community works and the socio/political implications. It was fascinating.

Last night we went on a group outing to a huge club in the largest favela, The Rocinha. There are over 200,000 residents in this hillside community which overlooks Rio. The club was a mass of humanity and the most fun ever! The hip hop/house/Brazilian pop music filled the warehouse and it was all about the dancing. Man can those Brazilian's move! It was a wild experience of passion and abandon that I'll never forget. I'm now a true favela fan!

Brazilian Beauty

For the Brazilians, beauty treatments are an art!

I went in search of the famous Brazilian and found several options on the way to Ipanema beach. What price for beauty? Mani's $2, Pedi's $5, and the traditional Brazilian is only $10. These prices take the sting out of anything. The Brazilian beauty experience gets an A+!

The Rio Beach Scene

Today I participated in the parade that is the beach in Rio. They shut down half of the boulevard that runs along the beach to accommodate the crowds of tan, almost nude people strolling around checking each other out. I walked the length of Copacabana, stopped for a caipirinha, watched a football game (they play soccer over a volleyball net--looks very hard), and bought the necesary Brazilian Havaianas sandals. Then I settled in at Ipanema for the afternoon. The beach is truly a frenzy of activity. People are sitting on top of one another and men selling cold drinks, snacks, clothes, sunglasses, jewelry, and everything else you can think of are buzzing around constantly. I didn´t get any reading done--it was more fun to watch the show!

Christ the Redeemer 

Samba Lessons

Yesterday was my first full day of adventure and it was perfect! It was an all day and night affair!

First we took a travelers tour of Rio. At 10am our guide, Wilson, picked up Stephanie &Alex (England), Karol (Ireland), Marta (Spain) and me for a hike in the Tijuca National Park. Yes, I did hike up to the top of Pedro Bonita and thought I might die. But, the view of the city and all its beaches was well worth it. I was able to enjoy the walk down where we saw orchids growing wild and adorable star monkeys.

Next stop was the top of the Christ the Redemmer statue which welcomes everyone to Rio, much like our Statue of Liberty. There were more amazing views and some hilarious group photos.

Next our merry group took a trolly ride up to Santa Teresa, a mountain artist community near the city center. We had a wonderful and simple Brazilian soul food lunch at Bar do Mineiro (Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno, 99/ 2221-9227 bardomineiro@zipmail.com). They had great magazine placements framed from Vogue, etc. Loved it!

We headed back to Casa 6 for communal power naps and more food. Everyone got all dolled up for an evening on the town. We went out with a group to celebrate our guide Wilson´s birthday. He picked us up at 10:30pm and took us to a local outdoor samba table club on top of Santa Teresa. The place was rustic, the locals were hot and music was heavenly. I learned to samba while drinking caipirinha´s and taking in all the lights of Rio below. People were spilling out into the street doing the samba under the stars. It doesn´t get much better! Well, actually it did...

We headed at 3am to the Friday night street dance in Lapa, another area near the city center. Thousands of shirtless Barzilians dancing in the clubs and the street made for an exciting evening/morning. We danced until dawn and then Karol, Elana and I hopped in a taxi to Ipanema beach for the sunrise.

Just another day in paradise! I might not come home...

The Girl In Ipanema

Rio is the perfect beginning for my journey! This is the city of beautiful sunrises!I landed in a fabulous pink sky, and after an all night street dance I watched the sun come up on Ipanema beach this morning. I'm off to a picturesque start!

I found my way to Casa 6, an adorable B&B in Ipanema (www.casa6ipanema.com Rue Barao da Torre, 175), with no trouble and made friends fast! I'm in a room with 5 other people so it was easy. On my first evening there was a group dinner at the Casa where 9 of us had a brazilian version of Chicken pot pie--I'm truly at home! We ate, drank and danced for hours.

I'm thrilled that I chose to stay in Ipanema over Copacabana. Copacabana is the most crowded neighborhood in Brazil. It feels more like a city than a beach community. But, the beach is something to see!

I highly recommend Ipanema in the winter. I can't imagine being here in the summer heat. It´s now in the low 80´s and humid. I'm staying 3 blocks from the beach in a neighborhood of beautiful people! Surfers walk through the streets in their shorts, without shoes carrying their boards. People sit for hours in the outdoor cafes along the tree lined streets. It feels like summer to me!

WEAR in the World?

My number one concern about this advenure is the packing! All the RTW travel books are written for 24 year old guys. One even suggested that I leave behind my favorite jeans because they don´t dry fast enough. Ha!

Here´s what I´ve decided to take along for the ride. I will review the list later to see what was actually useful or ridiculous to bring.
Clothes:
5 pair of pants -- including my favorite jeans
5 Banana tee shirts
5 cute little tops
1 truly active top and cover set--thanks Julie!
1 long sleeved cotton shirt
1 black sweater set
1 long flowy skirt
1 bathing suit -- well it has 2 different tops for variety
1 pair of PJ pants to double as beach cover
1 weeks worth of lingerie
1 black Gallo Gear nylon jacket
Splurges-- 1 Diane VR wrap dress and of course the Pucci shirt!

Shoes:
3 pair of sandals, Tennis shoes, Hushpuppies, 1 pair of heeled sandals

Outdoor Girl Stuff:
Travel towel, 2 flash lights, travel cup, silk sleep sheet (so the bed bugs don´t bite), rain poncho, ear plugs, expandable bag

Electronics/Necessities:
New digital camera, Ipod Mini, Cell phone (for emergencies--don´t call me on it), notebook and reporters journal--Thanks Ann, 3 travel files and official papers, 1 baseball cap, twice as many toiletries as I´ll need

And the Drugs:
101 Malaria pills -- thanks Gina
4 Rx´s of antibotics
100 dramamine
And every other over the counter drug, first aid item and general protector you can think of safely packed in Tupperware of course!
Most importantly millions of Benedryl!

I filled one very large backpack (to be checked), and two small packs to be used for weekend and day packs on the road. The adventure begins with or without the right clothes!