Horsing Around with Zebras

Our last stop before returning to civilization was the Mihngo Lodge at Mburo Lake. Each new park we visit has something special to offer and here we have zebras and the ability to explore the park on foot, or horseback.  There is only one lion in the park, an escapee from neighboring Tanzania.  It is a zebra, warthog and antelope party without predators.  One of my safari highlights was a sunset horseback ride through the park.  I just can't explain the thrill of riding Summer Song, my horse, through a herd of zebras at sunset.  What an experience!

Our last safari morning in our fantasy lodge started with a wake up call -- a young girl bringing coffee and tea in a basket to our open air tent/room at sunrise. I've never been so excited to get out of bed at the crack of dawn! We started the day with a walking safari in the park. It was amazing to encounter the wildlife on foot! This is truly the way to experience Uganda, around the watering hole.

After another five hour bumpy African road journey, we were back in Kampala.  Uganda's capital is pretty rough, and now I understand why many people stay out in Entebbe by the airport.  But, we had dinner plans with a friend, Paul, living in Kampala.

It was sad to say goodbye to our friend, driver and guide Richard, who showed us half of Uganda.  Luckily, Carrie had found us a rare boutique hotel, the Emin Pasha, to enjoy and recuperate before our journey home. Finally five star luxury, but I miss the sounds of Africa already...

Gorillas for Thanksgiving

After another thrilling day on Ugandan roads, the Mahogany Springs Lodge in the Bwindi rainforest was heaven. The tropical air was lush and the gorilla trek excitement was palatable.  The lodge was gorgeous. We were up early and anxious about our gorilla day.  Will it rain (and keep the gorillas up in the trees)?  How far would we have to hike?  How thick will the brush/nettles be? What will the other (5) people in our group be like? How close will we get? Will it live up to our expectations...

Our group (8 permits are given per gorilla family, $500 each for one hour visit, once a day) made a harrowing drive up a washed out mountain, hopped out and started to hike with our local porters, trackers and guide.  We were lucky that the sun was shining but the trail was thick with mud and the brush was hazardous. After an hour and a half gorillas were spotted.  We had to leave our packs, porters, and walking sticks behind to approach the gorillas.  Of course our huge silverback leader took off and led us racing through the brush.  Falling ass over elbows in nettles leaving a bloody trail, I missed Esra, my porter, and started questioning my sanity.  Then suddenly we were standing in the middle of about 16 gorillas.  There was a mom and her 22 day old baby, another 1 year old playing, a grumpy old man and of course the massive silverback leader eating and watching us. They are truly incredible creatures. Not only could I read their expression, but it was obvious that they could read ours. It was exhilarating, profound and humbling. I will forever remember this Thanksgiving Day.

When our hour was up and we were hiking away, the silverback charged our group twice.  It was terrifying.  Our tracker, armed with a machete did not flinch.  He just told the group to stay behind him and not to run.  Run?  No problem, I was scared stiff.  The silverback went on his way and my heart started again.  The guide speculated that although unusual he was charging to impress the ladies in his family.  Alpha males are the same the world over...  Our mission in Uganda was complete.  We bonded with "our cousins" and lived to tell about it.

Now it was time to relax. I had a massage in our room and the best shower in Africa.  Our Thanksgiving lemon chicken dinner in the dining room with rainforest views, was perfection.  In addition to great friends and exotic travels, I am also thankful for good South African wine this year!

The Lion King

Our next stop was the Queen Elizabeth National Park. In four hours we left the rainforest and were back in the hot savannah with big game.  Enroute we came upon on elephant family of about eight trying to cross the busy road. They were amazing and so close!

We swung off the highway and passed through an extremely poor village before reaching our next lodge, Katara, on the edge of the national park.  The breathtaking views provided the true Lion King experience.  The mesmerizing beauty stretched as far as the eye could see. Our room was extravagantly appointed, but of course very little lighting and no blowdryers allowed.  There seems to be a bad hair conspiracy in Uganda.

After an evening of listening to the local farmers make noise (including gun fire) to scare elephants out of their garden, we were up watching the sunrise over the Rwenzori Mountains and looking for lions. Richard's tracking skills are the best and we saw a lioness and her cubs on the move, two males resting extremely close to our path and another lioness sleeping in a tree. They were beautiful and so peaceful.  It's good to be the top of the food chain.

We skipped our afternoon boat ride in favor of happy hour and the lovely Katara Lodge view. This evening's excitement included an earthquake.  My first I believe, and Carrie and I thought it was just elephants again.

On our way to Bwindi, we visited Ishasha, the southern part of Queen Elizabeth Park.  This area is known for lions who like to sleep in trees. We found one perched in a fat fig tree.  This was the perfect lion sighting with no other safari vehicles around.  It was time to leave the savannah and head to the rainforest in search of gorillas!