Marching Through Red Square

Time to get back to some serious sightseeing! Today we took on Red Square. Red means beautiful in the old Russian language, and that it was! They close down Red Square in the mornings until 1pm and allow visitors into Lenin's Mausoleum. Then at 1pm they close the Tomb and open Red Square to pedestrians.

I spent the morning in the massive line waiting to see the notorious Lenin. I stood reading my novel, The Romanov Prophecy, in which the lead character, an attorney from Atlanta, was being chased around Red Square by the Russian Mafia -- I was riveted! While in line by the Kremlin wall I even got to see the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. It always seems so foreign to see the goose-step.

Chad and I made friends with a crazy tour group who invited us to skip the line and head in with them. Lenin's red and black marble tomb was kept very dark and he looked so peaceful--such a contradiction to his life. The guards made everyone stay very quiet. It was surreal. We filed out along the Kremlin wall past the burial place of other communist leaders like Stalin and Brezhnev.

The most impressive place on Red Square, and maybe in all of Russia, is certainly St. Basil's Cathedral. The vivid colored domes scream Russia! The legend is that Ivan the Terrible had the two architects who created St. Basil's blinded so that they could never build anything as lovely again. The inside is like a maze with decorative alters in all directions. Since we were visiting on Sunday, we even got to see a small service in one of the alter rooms!

The last place we visited on Red Square was the GUM Department Store which ironically faces Lenin's Mausoleum. It is a beautiful modern domed mall with some interesting shops. Chad found a few shirts in a Scandinavian store and we took some photos of this grand bastion of capitalism on Red Square.

It was amazing to see Red Square still and restricted in the morning, and then bustling with tourists in the afternoon. I stood and pictured the countless times I'd seen the Soviet troops congregate here on the news. It's amazing to see such a change in our world!

The Russian Experience

Today I felt like a resident of Moscow! I planned a vacation destination, went to a travel agent I've been dealing with to book a flight, went to a great salon in a posh neighborhood and had my hair colored, met Elena Putilina the director of Tupperware Russia for drinks, and then met some friends out for an alfresco dinner. It was a great day.

I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the age of capitalism in Russia and the progress of the Tupperware business. I am thankful to Rick Goings for setting up the meeting with Elena. Talking about the Tupperware opportunity in Russia was such fun. Elena's life is fascinating. She comes from a medical family and switched from her career as a doctor to Pharmacutical sales and then on to the new Tupperware career. It was such fun to learn about her life in Moscow.

I was also thrilled to see my friend Hal from St. Petersburg. We met before he headed off to Finland on the evening train. Then Chad and I enjoyed a great Italian meal outside in the perfect cool summer weather.

To top it all off I had a great hair day! I love Moscow!

Plan B

I've decided to punt on the Tran-Siberian Railroad trip. The logistics are a nightmare, and I've wasted too much time and energy trying to work through the 3 country ticketing process. The "one train a week" out of Mongolia makes it too risky to just take my chances and go. It would be along wait in a Ger (Mongolian tent). Time to go with Plan B. But first, I need to come up with Plan B!

Ukraine sounds fun, but Chad can't get a visa, apparently Aussies aren't as welcome as Americans. Parasailing certification school in Slovakia (www.m-fly.sk) sounds great, but the dates aren't lining up. Chad is thinking of Istanbul, been there but loved it. Or, maybe I'll fly to Southern China and work my way up to Beijing? The world is my oyster... Any suggestions?

Update: The verdict is in, I've decided to fly to Shanghai and then work my way up to Beijing! I've booked a flight and a hostel for August 3. Isn't Shanghai fun to say?

Conquering the Kremlin

Moscow is different than I expected! I had heard architectural suicide tales and urban planning nightmares, but I think the city has done a superb job of reacting from the changing political tides and blending history and modern needs. I'm impressed.

However, the horror stories about accommodation here are well founded. Chad and I are staying in a place I wouldn't board a cat, but it is on the best block on the best street in Moscow (Jimmy Choo is right around the corner--there is a God). I keep telling myself, location, location, location! We will NOT be inviting anyone up for cocktails!

Today, we headed a couple of blocks down to the Kremlin for our walking tour. We spent almost four hours seeing the mysteries of Russia. First of all, the word Kremlin in Russian means fortress and every medieval town had one! Moscow's Kremlin walls were first wooden, then limestone, and now brick. We walked through the Trinity Gate Tower and that foreshadowed what was to come. A tour of Russian orthodox churches ensued. I was under the misconception that churches did not fair well under communism, but that is clearly wrong. Cathedrals are a dime a dozen inside the Kremlin walls.

We toured several of the state churches--The one which is the most Russian in design (the others were designed by Italians), was where Tsars and Emperors were crowned, baptized and married. Apparently, Ivan the Terrible was not allowed to use the main entrance to this church because he was married four times (only three marriages were allowed by the orthodox church), so he built a separate entrance and alter just for his use. Being a supreme ruler has its privileges.

The Cathedral across the plaza was where the Tsars were buried before St. Petersburg was created. Ivan the Terrible decreed that he be buried in the most sacred area behind the alter. As our guide Marsha said "you see the paradox that is Russia." We heard a choir sing here and it brought chills!

The next stop was The Armoury. Here is where the treasures are! We saw more gold, silver and precious jewels than I could have imagined. To think that the people of Russia moved these treasures around during so many wars and kept them through so much turmoil is amazing. We saw dazzling Tsar and Emperors robes and gowns, priests' ceremonial robes, crown jewels, diamond studded carriages, countless exquisite state gifts and 10 unbelievable Faberge eggs. I was ready to hop back in time to wear Catherine the Great's gowns and ride in her carriage! Since I've been in Moscow I have proved that I can live without the comforts I'm accustomed to!

Chad and I left the Kremlin walls, which were also designed by Italians to resemble fish tails, to rest up with a long lunch! The weather is perfect for dining alfresco and the perfect Russian day came to a close!

So Long to St. Petersburg

I am sad to leave St. Petersburg this evening! What a fairy tale! There is still a lot I would like to see here, but I know that I will be back one day.

Today we went to the Russian art museum. The ornate yellow building would have been enough to visit without the impressive art collection. My favorite was an extensive Marc Chagall exhibit. I did not realize he lived to be 97 years old and painted right up to the end. His life was fascinating and to see his work in his native Russian was moving.

This evening I leave on the overnight train to Moscow. Chad is going too and we stopped and loaded up on snacks for the trip. I'm excited to ride my first overnight train on this trip. It is my warm up to the Trans-Siberian adventure to come...

May I Have This Dance?

The Kirov Ballet is in its 222nd season for good reason. We went to a magical performance at the most ornate Mariinsky theater this evening. It was Chad's first ballet and La Sylphide did not disappoint. We had great seats in a little box on the orchestra level and the dancers literally came to life before us. St. Petersburg is such an arts driven city; it was almost divine seeing the ballet here!

Tsar Spotting

Today we visited the spot where Tsar Nicholas was fatally wounded, and the place that all the Russian Tsars now rest. Both the Church of the Spilled Blood and the Cathedral in the Peter and Paul fortress are splendid! The Peter and Paul Cathedral is not an active church today, but it is the sacrid burial ground for Imperial Russia. It was a perfect day walking around this shimmering city!

Off to See Peterhof

Rejoicing in our sunny Sunday, Hal (the artist from St. Louis) and I took a boat heading west on the Neva River to visit Peterhof, St. Petersburg's Versailles. The palace was a like a fairy tale. The gardens went on for miles filled with fabulous fountains.

We floated from room to room hearing stories about the life of Peter the Great and the Tsars who followed him entertaining in this picturesque spot. Peterhof was not used as a permanent residence, it was used primarily for state events. There were countless other buildings on the site to tour. We saw a Faberge collection, several churches, stables, etc. We even took a rest on a little shady bench in the lower gardens. We learned and laughed all day -- it could not have been nicer.

St. Petersburg Set

St. Petersburg is a very friendly city! I've made wonderful friends at the Nord Hostel and we are having a ball seeing the sights. There is always someone to tour, eat and drink with! Who are my traveling companions?

Ken a dentist from Australia, Chad an electrician also from OZ, Annika a student from Germany, Fuensanta a communications manager from Spain, Hal an artist from St.Louis, and Fin an actor from Ireland.

Yesterday, we started the day with a walking tour of the city. We learned about Peter the Great's vision for St. Petersburg, which was named for St. Peter, not the Tzar. The city was designed in the early 1700's primarily by European architects. They did a superb job! What's more impressive is that the Russians have managed to maintain the city's beauty and focus on culture for over 300 years. It is a joy to walk down every street!

Seeing the Winter Palace made me dream of attending balls in Catherine the Great's court, and walking in the Summer Gardens was simply heaven by the Neva River. To see the city from a different perspective we also took a boat trip through the canals that weave around St. Petersburg. The area used to be marsh land and has a history of shipping.

After taking in the ornate colored buildings around town, we hit the most famous museum in Russia, the Hermitage. Visiting the Hermitage was another dream come true! We wondered for hours in the remarkable rooms admiring the Winter Palace craftsmanship and impressive art collection.

There is so much to see and do in St. Petersburg I could stay here for ages! This city has a rich heritage and cultural focus!

Mother Russia

I got off to a rough start by picking up a bug my last day in Cairo which I endured on the overnight flight to Moscow (left at 2am). I must say the Aeroflot flight was nice though. Despite the fact that they allowed very small children to sit in the exit rows and the flight attendants literally layed down and went to sleep on the plane, I was able to go to the back and stretch out.

I told the flight attendants that I was too weak to make it through customs and transfer to my flight to St. Petersburg, and they took care of everything. I was whisked in a wheelchair through baggage claim, customs, and transferred to the domestic airport in a private van. Then I was taken to a doctor in the domestic terminal. He was very sweet and gave me powder to drink, pills to take and told me to always drink whiskey before eating anything in Cairo! I got the same royal treatment in the domestic airport. I was even taken straight to the plane in an ambulance!

I was so glad to arrive in St. Petersburg and crawl in bed. I just felt better driving into the city and seeing the fantastic architecture and familiar sites. It was like my history text books coming to life! Then I walked into the best of all the hostels I've stayed in. The Nord Hostel (www.nordhostel.com) is 25 steps from the Winter Place (the Hermitage)and is simply lovely. The staff, especially Marsha who I have been emailing with, are very friendly and I was snuggled up in bed in no time.

When I woke up I visited with my two great roommates, a girl from Madrid and one from Frankfurt for the rest of the evening. It feels like home here already!

Coming Out of Egypt

For years I've wanted to go to see the Pyramids and float on the Nile. It was most appropriate to read The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho on this leg of my journey! Like his character Santiago, the shepherd in search of his Personal Legend, my trip is fulfilling a dream. I'm glad that I had the chance to accomplish this part of the dream.

However, I'm also glad that I only spent a week in Egypt (because my Dad was concerned about the area). I could not have withstood the heat one more minute! After the madness that is Cairo, I feel I am better prepared for Beijing and New Delhi. Also, I will never think of New York City the same way again. I have a completely new perspective on time and space!

Temple and Tomb Hopping

For two days we have cruised the Nile and stopped to see amazing temples and tombs. I consider myself an Egyptologist now! I've seen countless temples and tombs from the Early, Middle and New Kingdoms. I've learned myths, interpreted drawings and withstood 120 heat to do so! It's breath-taking to walk in the footsteps of ancient civilizations.

Highlights:

Kom-Ombo Temple, built in the 200's BC. Many of the original colors are still in tact. We toured this at 7am, so it was actually comfortable!

Al-Khaukha temple was constructed in the 1500's BC, by Queen Hatshepsut. Queen Hatshepset ruled for 40 years and was the second woman to rule in Egypt, after Cleopatra of course. She portrayed herself as a man or a cow in the cravings. She was respected and was buried in the Valley of the Kings. An early modern woman!

Valley of the Kings was my favorite stop. In one special place on the West bank of the Nile, the Kings of the Middle and New Kingdom built elaborate tombs for themselves underground, but disguised them in this valley. It was great to walk down into the Tombs and see where they planned to start the everlasting life. There are 62 tombs in the Valley of Kings, but some are unroyal. King Tut's tomb was the last one discovered in the early 1900s, and it was special because it had not been robbed by tomb raiders. I saw all the jewels in the Egypt Museum in Cairo.

I also enjoyed the Karnak and Luxor Temples in Luxor. Where successive kings destroyed part of the old temples and build there own offering to the Gods. One King could not destroy an obelisk (they are good luck and made for the Gods) created by another King, so he built a high wall around it to hide it.

Cruising between the temple and tombs gave me a true sense of how important the Nile is to life in Egypt. Nothing exists without it! Or as they say, the Nile is Life.

Navigating the Nile

I have abandoned my plan of floating down the Nile on a Felucca (traditional old sail boat). Sounds very romantic, but not at 120 degrees. I have opted for a luxury cruise on the Anni instead! A girl needs her beauty rest!

Just so you don't think it's all roses on the road, I had an awful time planning the Nile cruise section of my trip. I felt like the travel people the hotel recommended weren't honest, the arrangements changed a million times, the flight was delayed six hours with no announcement, etc. I finally managed to get things arranged and I plan to enjoy myself now that I'm here!

I flew down to Aswan last night and spent the night in my fab stateroom. At first I didn't know what to do with all those comforts, but it came back to me! This morning a guide took me to see the Aswan dam, which supplies most of Egypt with Hydro power and took 11 years to build. They are very proud of it! Next, we stopped at a few more historical sites before taking a Felucca trip around the Nile. The boat was piloted by two Nubian men. The Egyptians are quick to point out how different the Nubians are in addition to their dark skin. I'm going to ask more questions about the cultural differences if I can find someone who speaks English!

My tour group from the boat is a group of Moroccans. They are great fun, but we cannot communicate without our guide translating. It is funny to watch us try though. They have asked me to change my program and come home to Morocco with them. I'm tempted!

We had a free afternoon and I have enjoyed it thoroughly! I have wondered the back streets around the Nile. Literally between goats and chickens, spice markets and hooka pipe-smokers, I saw a sign for an internet cafe. The dark alley was very frightening, but when I got down it the Internet place is adorable! Grass covered walls, bamboo tables for the computers, ceiling fans and a cute Muslin girl running the place. Wonders never cease!

I am going to amble back to the ship for a sunset cocktail now. We set sail this evening stopping for two days at ancient sites on our way to Luxor. I can't wait to sit on the deck and stare at the magical Nile! It's like a dream.

Giza Pyramids and Sphinx

There are 108 pyramids in Egypt and those at Giza together with the Sphinx are the most famous. They are close to Cairo and remain in remarkable shape after all these years. What struck me the most was the lack of security and care at the sites. You could virtually walk right up to the pyramids. They exude mystery. You can't help but wonder about the people and their beliefs. I noticed a smaller pyramid next to the Choeps pyramid, which is one of the 7 wonders. The smaller pyramid was for those who died building the King's pyramid. According to Lami, it was an honor to work on the construction. I had always heard that they used slaves. There are separate pyramids for queens and high officials. Only the King and all his most precious belongings are buried in the pyramid. I guess they thought he would get new wives in the afterlife!

Why did they stop building pyramids? Tomb robbers! The kings chose a new burial site (the Valley of the Kings) which was considered safe. I will visit that in Luxor on my Nile Cruise.

A little about Lami, she is working on her PhD in Egyptology. She's 26, unmarried and adorable. She wore pants and a shirt (no robe) and a head scarf. She lives with her parents, which is the only thing she can do until she gets married. Like U.S. mothers, hers rides her about finding a husband. She is looking for someone enlightened who will let her work. She says that all men, even those her age, want a traditional wife to stay home and serve him. Apparently, she has until she's 28 until it gets embarrassing that she's not married. She cannot travel without her parents or a husband, and she would like to do so. It was fascinating talking to her over lunch. She is very intelligent, and made me feel that I have more in common with some Muslim women than I realized.

Saqqara--Egypt's Oldest Pyramid

OK, my resolve had faded in the heat. No bonding with fun young backpackers and seeing things the economical way. I hired a private car and guide to take me around Cairo and the pyramids. I was thrilled to get a female tour guide, Lami Gamal Mhmoud, so I could ask all my questions about what it's like to be a Muslim woman in Cairo! We had a ball.

First, stop was the oldest pyramid in Egypt, Saqqara. It was built in about 3,000 BC and took 16 years to construct. It is shaped like a wedding cake. The afterlife was so important in ancient Egypt that the pyramids were constructed to hold everything the King would need in the afterlife in addition to his body.

Next, we went on to Memphis (I kept thinking Graceland), which was the capital of the Old Kingdom and now houses some great artifacts from both the Old and New Kingdoms. I learned that the important male statutes always depicted the left foot forward because that's how you advance with a bow and arrow.

Then it was on to the main attraction...

Entering Egypt

There is only one word for Cairo, overwhelming! I came from the state-of-the-art airport in Dubai and stepped back in time when I got off the plane in Egypt. There is no concept of lining up--just crowds moving forward in unison. And the taxi system seems to be a yelling contest with no one judging--bascially a parking lot of idllying cars with out airconditioning or seatbelts.

I thought surly there would be a little more order when I got to the Luna Hotel. Oh no. My hotel is conveniently located on the busiest shopping street in downtown Cairo, Talaat Harb Street. The hotel is cute and the staff are very friendly, but all 22 million people who live in Cairo are on this street. This places makes NYC in December look like a small town in Iowa!

Oddly enough I do not feel afraid in the crowds just claustrophobic. There is an odd juxtaposition here. The people have no sense of order or authority. For example, men, women and children cross in the middle of busy four lane traffic at all points except the corners. They just dart out and everyone blows their horn. Many of the major intersections just have a flashing yellow light daring people to have at it! Now, picture this mayheim with most of the women wearing head scarves and everyone conservatively dressed if not in robes. They dress, and apparently think, very conservatively but they are a very daring bunch!

Oh, did I mention that all this insanity is occuring in 112 degree heat? Fun, fun, fun...

7 Hours in Dubai

Tears were coming down my cheeks as I left Africa, but then I thought about the promise of 7 hours in the shopping capital of the world. That cheered me up!

I had a 7 hour lay-over in Dubai on my way to Cairo, and I shot my budget for several days when the stores weren't even open! Thank goodness I changed my plan to spend a night there or I could have been in debt!

I should have known there was trouble when I saw the splendid the airport with wall to wall bank ads. Since it was Friday, the Muslim religious holiday, the shops were closed. So naturally I headed straight for the world's only 7 star hotel, the Burj Al Arab. It is something to see! You approach the sail shaped building from a bridge from the stunning beach. It is awesome! The Burj defines the skyline of the resort area in Dubai and that is saying a lot.

The interior was Barcelona's Gaudi mixed with a little Donald Trump. The famous restaurant, Al Mahara, is underwater. They even have a little submarine to take you there! You can watch the sharks and fish swim around while you eat in style. The bathrooms are filled with orchids and the service is impecable. It was a little different than my typical backpacker day!

Dubai is truly an oasis in the desert. Palm trees suround the modern and arabic style buildings. I'd love to come back in the cooler months (Oct-Feb) to take a camel safari! But for now, it's on to Cairo...

The Sun Sets on Our Safari

All good things must come to an end. At least I know I want to come back and safari again!

Makgagadi Sanctuary

Our last excursion of the safari was perhaps the most special. Harry took us out to the Makgagadi Sanctury, which is owned and operated by the local community. It is a series of endless estuaries and pans. It's extremely flat and seems to stretch on forever. The largest pan is Sowa and it looks like an ocean or Great Lake. In the distance you could see tens of thousands of Flamingos in the distance perched on the pan. This migration happens rarely and usually not this time of year. It was amazing.

We parked the car because we were scared to get stuck, and then headed out on foot and DID get stuck. The muck was so strong that it became impossible to pick-up our feet. We laughed hysterically at the sight of us all stuck in the mud! But, we were rewarded with one of the most awe inspiring sunsets I've ever seen. If it were for the couple of trees on the horizon it would not have been possible to see where the early ended and the sky began. We stopped at a log and thatched roof observation point and soaked in the electric energy from the sun toughing everything in sight.

I kept thinking that I could write a great romance novel about Hercules, getting stuck in the mud and the unbelieveable views of Mother Africa. I am definately inflamed with all the sky drama!

Living it Up in Botswana

We bid farewell to Zimbabwe on Day 7. That was our last stretch with the imperfect roads. I was thrilled to get into Botswana and check my email to learn that my parents were fine in the aftermath of Hurricane Dennis. The stores had goods and the land changed.

In an instant you could see forever. The flat lands in this area of Botswana are called pans. There was also banana trees, citrus and sugar care growing. It seemed like the land of milk and honey after Zimbabwe.

Botswana is not without its own problems. We learned that there was a good reason that they give out free condoms with the Botswana Flag at the border crossing. The nation has 0 population growth due to the death toll from aids. There are 1.6 million people in Botswana and only 580,000 sq Kilometers. Also, 25% of the land is protected for wildlife. Even though Botswana has the highest per capita income in Africa, it is certainly not evenly distributed. The top three industries are diamonds, cattle, and tourism.

Speaking of tourism, our destination was a town called Nata. Nata is aptly named, but we loved our Nata Lodge resort. We were still camping, but had the use of the excellent facility! We got to relax and enjoy the pool under the moody African skys.

Elephant Riding

Stephanie, Ute and I chose went on a sunset Elephant Safari. We headed out in the country side to an elephant farm and saddled up. We had a great time seeing the trails from such a high vantage point. My elephant, Jumbo, was reportedly the most intelligent of the bunch, which meant that he tried to get away with everything. It was an exciting ride!

When we got back that night Robert was finished with his whitewater rafting trip and viewing the falls, so we headed to The Boma (the eating place in Shona) for a game dinner. It was a fantastic restaurant with all kinds of wild game and drumming at the tables. My favorite dish was the warthog, but the Kudu was a close second. I had a ball drumming under the thatched roof!

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Side

Safari Day 6 was our most relaxing day. We had optional activities and free time too! Stephanie, Ute and I went to explore Victoria Falls in the morning. It was amazing. This is the biggest waterfall in the world in terms of volume of water. It was a beautifully sunny day, but as we walked along the rainforest microclimate the spray soaked us. It is called the Smoke that Thunders, and that it does! There was just a well worn path around with plenty of places that you could plunge to your death. It makes you realize how safety conscious we are in the US. Even the visitors to Iguazu Falls were much more protected.

We used our free time to look around the town of Victoria Falls and see for ourselves how very little they have. Not a Coke in sight! I had a relaxing afternoon back at the camp--one of the best I had on the trip. I'm starting to really enjoy this camping thing. Scary!

Cruisin' on the Zambezi River

We finished out journey into Zimbabwe on Day 5 and stopped at the town of Victoria Falls. Our camp site was right in the center of the town located on the great waterfalls where three countries meet. We spent our first evening cruising down The Mighty Zambezi River. We had fantastic luck with animal sightings on the sunset cruise. We were yards away from a group of hippos who looked absolutely adorable! There was even a baby with them resting peacefully.

We were rewarded with an amazing sunset and I felt like I was on the Africa Queen! I enjoyed snuggling up to Harry and hearing stories about his favorite animal sightings. It was the perfect way to experience the majesty of the water before seeing the power of the falls!

Chipengali Wildlife Orphanage

At the end of Day 4 we arrived at a wildlife orphanage, Chipengali, located near Bulawayo, Zimbabwe's second largest city. We had a private behind the scenes tour with Cal, the facility's director. We got to get close to the last two of our big five search a rhino and a cheetah. We got to pet the rhinos which will remain at Chipengali until they are no longer endangered. There is a horrible poaching problem with hunters killing the animal for its tusk. The tusks are sold as aphrodisiac at a huge profit.

But, by far the best part of the day and maybe the safari was playing with 3 month old lion cubs. It was so exhilarating! They are strong, lovable, playful and a little frightening. What a feeling! Words can't do it justice.

We stayed at Chipengali that evening. We made a huge bonfire, drank, sang and listened to the animals with the volunteers from the orphanage. They come to Africa from all over the world and are so passionate about saving the wildlife. Being in nature that way really touched me. I just felt more alive.

The Great Zimbabwe Monument

Our first stop on Day 4 was The Great Zimbabwe Monument, a World Heritage Site, which gave its name to the country in 1980. We had a guided tour (in the pouring rain) and learned a great deal about the 13-14th century construction of the site and about the life of the king, his 200 wives and the 2,500+ men and women who lived in the walled city. She also told us about their ceremonies of male circumcision and female virginity tests. Harry said these customs still exist in the tribes today!

The Inn at Great Zimbabwe

Day 4 began like a dream. Harry had suprised us the night before by turning into an adorable inn on a hillside. So, after a good nights sleep we were also treated to a lovely full breakfast complete with a stunning view of Lake Kyle. Everything was lush and wild like I picture the country in summer!

About Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe used to be a prosperous country which fed itself and exported food to most of Africa--a success story as a British Colony. The country gained independence in 1980 and Cde Mugabe, the democratically elected leader, has been in power ever since. There is now at least a 50% aids rate, poverty is omnipresent, there is only subsistence farming, and the gas shortage is critical. No gas, no goods, no transportation...

Despite the very grim situation, the countryside is vibrant and full of life. The road are full of people walking, riding donkey carts, waiting for rare buses. They wear colorful clothes and the children smile and wave at us everywhere. My favorite scene is watching the women carry the large bowls and baskets on their head and babies on their back. It's no doubt who the stronger sex is in Zimbabwe!

Harry said he is amazed at the decline he has seen in his three and a half years of visiting on safaris. It seems like such an awful shame to see a nation that was prosperous fall back into despair.

Life in Rural Southern Africa

Day 3 on Safari

The 4:30 am wake up call is just ridiculous in my opinion, but the custom of having a second breakfast (like a Hobbit) is great. We ate like mad during the whole safari. Animal spotting is hard work!

As we were leaving Kruger Park we were rewarded by a fantastic buffalo sighting. We saw a huge herd very close to the road. We had a standoff for quite a while. They don't look like our buffalo at home.

After we left Kruger Park to the north we passed some very rural areas in SA on our way to Zimbabwe. We were fascinated by tribal life. We stopped at a small town before the border crossing for Harry to get provisions, including many containers of gas, and for us to get anything we wanted to drink for the next three days. Harry warned us that goods were not available in Zimbabwe. We soon saw just how grim the situation is in Zimbabwe.

We parked at the border crossing and stepped back in time! This was a sign of things to come. There were long lines of unclean people, intimidation tactics, and bribery attempts all around. Harry was our savior and handled everyone and every obsticle with a smile and cheerful word. It was easy to see that being polite was the best way to navigate the system. For the days to come he continued to be extremely polite to every official at the dozen plus road blocks we encountered and we were never searched. A great example I will try to follow on my travels!

Cozy Evenings in the Park

Kruger Animal Spotting List

Here's what we saw in order of appearance:

Kudu
Buffalo**
wildebeest
Giraffe
Impala
Lions**
Warthog
Water Buck
Zebra
Ostrich
Vervet Monkey
Bush buck
Elephant**
Hippo
Tsessebe (fastest antelope in Africa)
Duiker
Steenbok
Hyenas

**One of the Big Five (most dangerous animals to hunt)

Day 2 Kruger Park South Africa

Day 2 started at 5am! No one told me about this part! We broke camp and were on a game drive by 6:10am. Harry thought we were 10 minutes late (gates to the park open at 6am). I thought it was a miracle!

As we headed into the park Harry's first comment was that we don't stop for antelope. We were hunting for bigger game. It takes concentration and everyone's eyes to spot the animals. Their camouflage is very effective. But, it is so exciting to spot something and yell stop! The more you look the more you find. When we had a sighting Harry would stop and tell us such interesting facts.

For example, elephants are very destructive eaters. We watched them knock over whole trees to eat some roots. You can certainly see their path. The elephant's lifespan is about 65 years. They grind away their teeth eating and only get 6 pair in a lifetime. When the sixth set is gone they will starve to death. Who knew?

We saw a dead elephant covered in vultures, and an elephant came right up to the car and looked like he would charge. It was magnificent and frightening! We also crossed over the Tropic of Capricorn and felt like true explorers!

We made camp that evening in the park again. Harry made a Braai (BBQ) of chicken, corn, butternut squash, etc. It went well with my SA Pinotage. That evening we found the Southern Cross and gazed at all the different constellations while we listened to the elephants eating and hyenas barking. It was a magical night in the African bush. I even slept outside under the stars!

We're Supposed to Do What?

Day 1 of the Great Safari

As you can imagine, I led the charge in group bonding! We quickly learned that Harry did not talk while driving, but that he did answer questions. No problem there! I sat up front for the next 8 days and asked him to explain everything we passed. Only once did he say the crop has to be over a couple of inches for to tell what it is. He was a driving encyclopedia of animal and plant life, history and economics, language and customs...

We passed towns, tribal lands and diamond mines on our way to Kruger. We watched the scenery change over our 7 hour drive and eventually we went through the Drakensburg Mountains down into the valley and entered the famous Kruger National Park.

After an interesting tent pitching lesson, we hopped on a cool safari wagon and took a night game drive with a park ranger. We had some great animal sightings with spot lights in pitch black setting. The best was a pair of lions walking along in the grass. We got back to camp to a warm dinner by the campfire. We learned that Harry cooks and we clean-up each meal. The campsite in the middle of Kruger was dead quiet by 10pm and it was a surreal feeling to be in the park surrounded by game held at bay by one small electric fence!

Off on Safari

Safari Overview
The safari visits Kruger National Park in SA, The Great Zimbabwe Monument, Chipengali and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, and the Makgagedi Sanctuary in Botswana. I was supposed to fly out early at Victoria Falls to catch my flight to Dubai, but I soon realized that I'd rather finish the safari than shop in Dubai! Yet another fun detour!

The People
Our guide Harry, actually Hercules is his real name, drove our little group about 2,500 miles in 8 days and answered at least that many questions. He cooked our meals by the campfire and kept us running on a mightly schedule across southern Africa. In other words, he's a saint!

Ute, from Germany was the most quiet and easy going of the group. God bless her! She had been working and living with a host family in Cape Town before joing the safari. She had a great attitude and was always up for anything!

Robert, also from Germany, was fresh from a work/study program in Namibia. He was as inquesitive as I was and could always be found talking to a stranger. He is a triathelete and was the most active of the group. I've never seen someone eat that much and stay so thin!

Stephanie, from Los Angeles, just came from visiting her boyfriend in Cape Town and was on a 3 month around the world tour. She is off to Asia next. Stephanie is extremely bright and fun to talk with. She lacked my vast camping experience (Girl Scouts in middle school), and was used to the creature comforts, not the creatures. We were on the same page!

We all piled into the Bundu Safari van (www.bundusafaris.com)with our trailer of camping gear and away we went...

Going on Safari

After a lovely day in Cape Town, this afternoon I flew over the Johnesburg to get ready to go on Safari. There was a snafu with my hostel room when I arrived, so I ended up in the lap of luxury with a beautiful hotel suite for the night! A fabulous tub is the perfect way to get ready for the bush!

I will be in the bush, literally camping, for the next week. Hopefully, I will get to post pictures of the Big 5 when I return to civilization!

Weaving Through the Wineland

To celebrate the 4th of July, I took a Cape Wine Tour with 7 other international wine enthusiasts. There were two different group trip options. On one they reportedly hose down the van afterward, and on mine the goal is to learn a little something while sampling the winelands. I made sure the others from my hostel, Joanna, Sarah and my new roommate Pete, brought plenty of water and crackers. So, we were set for a day of fun!

Our trip covered three cape wine regions: Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl. It only took us about 40 minutes to reach the first stop in Stellenbosch, Villiera. Our tour guide had a true passion for wine and took us through the winery like a pro. We learned that the winery was started by two cousins (a grape grower and a winemaker). They were soon joined by another Grier family member who heads up the sales team. Sound familiar?

At Villiera they make both still wines and Method Cap Classic (champagne). We met the winemaker who was a character and a couple of local women working on the very small sparkling bottling line. My favorite of the wines we tasted in their traditional tasting room was a delicious Sav Blanc.

Next we were off to Simonsig, which was a lovely vineyard set on the rolling hillside of Simonsberg Mountain. This was an extra winery visit for our group because I showed our guide my Gallo recommendation list and asked to squeeze in another one. It was an exciting tour and our outdoor tasting began with a ceremonial "sabrage" where the top of a Cuvee Royale (Champagne) bottle was cut off with a sword! Apparently this is a Russian word for a French tradition. This and the other wines we tasted were fabulous, including a spectacular Syrah and a "Tiara" (LOVE the name), which is a blend of 4 of the 5 Bordeaux varietals.

Feeling no pain, we then drove around the town of Stellenbosch. Stellenbosch, called the Oak City because of all the magnificent trees, is dominated by a large university and some grand Dutch architecture. It was the perfect sunny day to take it all in.

Next, we headed over the mountain pass to Tokara. Tokara, a five year old winery, was started by a chef from Johannesburg. The winery is simply spectacular! The very modern building design featured the tasting room above the glass enclosed steel tanks. A beautiful restaurant was down below, but alas was not open for lunch.

The name Tokara is not yet licensed and the wines produced there are called "Zondernaam." Zondernaam translates to "has no name" and was found on an old map of the original farm. My favorite was an 04 Zondernaam Chenin Blanc. It was sunshine in a glass!

It was now definitely time for lunch. We stopped at a farm for a hearty lunch and more toasting. Then it was on into the valley of Franschhoek. The village of Franschhoek was splendid. I wish I had a night to spend in one of the many quest houses. It's no wonder why this is such a popular weekend get-a-way spot from Cape Town. We stopped at an adorable chocolate factory and the French Huguenot Monument to take in the scenic views. None of us wanted to leave Franschhoek, but the next winery sounded great and more food waited.

Next we visited the Fairview winery located on the southwest slopes of Paarl Mountain. This fourth generation winery is currently run by a colorful character, Charles Back. The vineyards look like perfectly combed carpets on the hill side and the estate has old world charm. They have a gourmet shop, bakery, restaurant and a bunch of peacocks running loose on the grounds! Spectacular cheese tastings are their specialty. In addition to some tasty single vineyards, Pinotage Blends, and Spice Route wines, they also produce a very fun line called "Goats do Roam." Apparently there was some mischief and the goats on the estate were let loose in the vineyard. They found that the goats had good palates and created a special blend from the grapes they ate that day. There was a great controversy with the name, which turned into a PR dream judging by the framed placements!

A fun day was had by all! I felt right at home in the Cape Winelands with the many tour options, good areas maps, formal public tasting rooms and supporting accommodation/restaurant options. This was a very different experience than my trip to Mendoza. Argentina's wine region is like a diamond in the rough by comparison. Cheers!

Township Tour

Sunday morning was the best time to take the Township tour in Cape Town. A small group of us rode in a minibus with our guide, Blackie (he has a twin brother called Whitey--I'm not kidding), who took us through two different "townships" or shanty communities just outside of Cape Town. He explained that during Apartheid the government decided where the laborers would live and under what conditions. They are appauling now and I can't imagine what they looked like with even less. More distressing is that half of Cape Town's population lives in these conditions. Despite the poverty, on Sunday morning the residents were all dressed for church. People were walking for as far as the eye can see to go to church.

We went to a Baptist Church service, and I was moved by the spirit. The service lasts three hours (10am-1pm) and everyone seems to have a part. The junior choir sung and signed a hymn and many lay people spoke. They spoke partially in English and partially in their native tongue. Our guide's father was the preacher and he lives behind the church with his family.

Those who weren't going to church were preparing BBQ on the mainstreets. We saw someone kill a sheep on the side of the rode and prepare it for Sunday lunch. Everything smelled so good I wanted to stop for Sunday dinner!

View From Table Mountain

The one must-do thing in Cape Town is a trip up Table Mountain. Table Mountain is the dominant point in the Cape Town-scape. The large flat-top mountain watches over Cape Town and creates a magical feeling in the city. The other mountains in the range like Lion's Head also contribute to the feeling that this town is other worldly.

I took the cool cable car up to the top and brought a picnic lunch to enjoy the view. You can see all the way down to the Cape of Good Hope, with the Atlantic on one side and the Indian Ocean (or False Bay) on the other. The city sparkled down below, and I could see the posh beach community I would like to live in one day!

A Night on the Town

Of course, I needed to give the Cape Town nightlife a try just for comparison purposes. I went out with two women from the hostel one Canadian traveling around Africa and a woman from Colorado at the end of her around the world trip. We had a fabulous dinner at a place called Greens, that easily could have been located in NYC--very chic. Then we headed to Long Street the center of nightlife for travelers.

We went to a new nightclub we heard about, Miam Miam. Confronted with a red velvet rope and long line outside I tried the NYC tactic of a little cash to the bouncer and we sailed in. Life is good when you are "on the list" Ha! It is a very reserved scene compared to my recent outings in South America. It reminded me of a bar in LA--it was a beautiful crowd. We quickly found several guys to visit with, two from SA and one American who is teaching in Cape Town now. We proceeded to have a great time dancing til dawn! Although it's not the Tango, I remembered how much I like to swing too.

A Journey to the Cape of Good Hope

Yesterday, I had a true day of discovery on my BAZ Bus Cape Peninsula tour! Ten of us headed out with our driver and guide to get to the bottom of it all. I should have known it would be an adventure when I saw the trailer filled with bikes that was hitched to the back of the minibus!

Our first stop after leaving Cape Town through all the posh beach communities was Hout Bay Harbor. We boarded a boat to Duiker Island which is a Cape Fur Seal sanctuary, home to thousands of seals. We saw hundreds of seals sunning themselves on this "Bachelor" rock. The majority of the seals are male and waiting breeding age (8-12 yrs) when they will go to the nearby breeding grounds. The large numbers of seals are one of the reasons for the high shark population in this area. Sharks love to eat seals!

Bruce, our guide, told us that there is only about one death a year from Great White Sharks in this area, but there are about 40 deaths a year from lion attacks, 1,000 a year by Hippos, and a death every six minutes caused by taxis.

We stopped at nearby Chapmans Peak for scenic views of Hout Bay before heading over to the suburbs of Simon's Town on the west coast of False Bay. False Bay got it's name because the seacaptains would often get confused and think that Cape Town was on this bay. Wrong!

Our next stop was "The Boulders" an African Penguin colony. About 3,000 penguins live on the beach and the brush in this nice suburban area. We could walk very close to them on a series of board walks through the breeding grounds. They were cuter than you can imagine! They are very clumsy on land but are built for speed in the water. They mate for life and I saw them sitting on eggs in their nests (they take turns guarding the eggs) and running on the beach. They used to be called Jackass Penguins because of the noise they make. I wanted to take some home!

We then headed to Cape Point national park. We had a picnic lunch and learned a lot at the Visitor's Center before hiking up to the lighthouse for magnificent views. Seeing the convergence point for two ocean currents was very cool! The Atlantic and its cold water plant and animals and False Bay which is warm water and brings different flora and fauna. While in the national park we saw baboons, zebras, bontelook (white tailed antelope), and a Southern Right whale off the coast.

We rode bikes from the Cape Point Lighthouse down to the Cape of Good Hope its self. It's a good thing that I conquered my fear of biking on the Red Bicyclette trip to France last summer! I managed to stay on the bike despite the confusion of cars driving on the wrong side of the road! I stopped at one point to watch some baboons playing on the beach and they came right up to me. Their mannerisms are frighteningly human.

It was a great day of learning about SA history and seeing amazing natural beauty. The animals, flowers, and rocky beaches were heavenly! The bright sunshine made the whole day a photo op! I think I took more pictures here than anywhere I've visited so far.

Cape of Good Hope