Moscow is different than I expected! I had heard architectural suicide tales and urban planning nightmares, but I think the city has done a superb job of reacting from the changing political tides and blending history and modern needs. I'm impressed.
However, the horror stories about accommodation here are well founded. Chad and I are staying in a place I wouldn't board a cat, but it is on the best block on the best street in Moscow (Jimmy Choo is right around the corner--there is a God). I keep telling myself, location, location, location! We will NOT be inviting anyone up for cocktails!
Today, we headed a couple of blocks down to the Kremlin for our walking tour. We spent almost four hours seeing the mysteries of Russia. First of all, the word Kremlin in Russian means fortress and every medieval town had one! Moscow's Kremlin walls were first wooden, then limestone, and now brick. We walked through the Trinity Gate Tower and that foreshadowed what was to come. A tour of Russian orthodox churches ensued. I was under the misconception that churches did not fair well under communism, but that is clearly wrong. Cathedrals are a dime a dozen inside the Kremlin walls.
We toured several of the state churches--The one which is the most Russian in design (the others were designed by Italians), was where Tsars and Emperors were crowned, baptized and married. Apparently, Ivan the Terrible was not allowed to use the main entrance to this church because he was married four times (only three marriages were allowed by the orthodox church), so he built a separate entrance and alter just for his use. Being a supreme ruler has its privileges.
The Cathedral across the plaza was where the Tsars were buried before St. Petersburg was created. Ivan the Terrible decreed that he be buried in the most sacred area behind the alter. As our guide Marsha said "you see the paradox that is Russia." We heard a choir sing here and it brought chills!
The next stop was The Armoury. Here is where the treasures are! We saw more gold, silver and precious jewels than I could have imagined. To think that the people of Russia moved these treasures around during so many wars and kept them through so much turmoil is amazing. We saw dazzling Tsar and Emperors robes and gowns, priests' ceremonial robes, crown jewels, diamond studded carriages, countless exquisite state gifts and 10 unbelievable Faberge eggs. I was ready to hop back in time to wear Catherine the Great's gowns and ride in her carriage! Since I've been in Moscow I have proved that I can live without the comforts I'm accustomed to!
Chad and I left the Kremlin walls, which were also designed by Italians to resemble fish tails, to rest up with a long lunch! The weather is perfect for dining alfresco and the perfect Russian day came to a close!
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