My impressions of South America were influenced by the books I read while traveling. I learned from my friend Brian years ago to select books set in the country where I'm traveling. This was quite difficult with my itinerary. I brought about nine books with me and still need to buy a few more on the road. However, the selection in English can be very slim and expensive overseas.
In Brazil, I read "Eleven Minutes" by Paulo Coelho. It's the story of a poor girl from the countryside of Brazil who gets "discovered," while on a trip to Rio, to become a famous dancer. She goes to Switzerland and eventually becomes a prostitute. She bringings a Brazilian perspective on all her decisions. While an extreme story, you can definitely see an adventurous side to the South Americans. They make it a priority to enjoy life.
My most moving read was "The Motorcycle Diaries" by Ernesto "Che" Guevara. Reading such a profound and entertaining travel diary by a famous Argentinean while traveling around his homeland was incredible. Learning about Che and Alberto's escapades, and their 24 yr old's impressions helped me to understand more about the roots of Che's politics.
I was also astounded at the level and proximity of the rich and the incredibly poor in all the cities I visited. The divide is very famous in Rio complete with tours of the slums. In Mendoza, the magnificent wineries were totally surrounded by poverty like I've never seen before. In Buenos Aires, the unbelievable slums are on the outskirts of the city. However, the political unrest is represented in the middle of the action by demonstrations and strikes everyday. I saw countless workers picketing and drawing crowds. While I was in BA I was aware of a baggage handlers strike at the airport, a local bus strike, and the Colon Theatre workers went out on strike which prevented me from seeing an amazing Ballet on my last night in town!
Since I don't plan to become a revolutionary, I will close with how excited I am to have experienced the warmth and hospitality that is South America. The local people seem to take life in stride and are committed to living each day to the fullest. They are very proud of their culture and appreciate those who come to visit. It was wonderful to learn to relax more into their comfortable lifestyle.
My biggest regret was that I did not visit Peru which seemed to be a big favorite with most travelers. Also, a trip to the Amazon in either Peru or Brazil is a must for the future. And then there is Chile, and Patagonia... Needless to say I will be back again!
I'd rather be playing with Elephants
Wednesday, June 29, 2005
Back in BA
I resumed big city life in Buenos Aires for my last three days in South America. My primary objective was to obtain a visa to enter China in August. I had such good luck with the Russian Embassy in BA that I decided to take on China. I found that my inability to speak either Spanish or Chinese made things go much quicker. They just gave up, and I sailed through the process in record time!
Now on to the fun part. I decided to devote myself to the Tango for three days. When in Buenos Aires...
Four lessons with dreamy and talented Ismael, two nights Tangoing into the wee hours, one pair of to-die-for shoes, and another Tango Show at Cafe Tortoni later I am completely hooked. Mel swears that I'm a natural, and I credit the 21 years I've followed Steve around the dance floor! Or, perhaps it's just that I would follow Mel anywhere.
The point of the Tango is to feel and move, and NOT to concentrate or anticipate -- this is ironic since it's also the goal of my RTW adventure!
Sunday, June 26, 2005
Mendoza Meandering
I am delighted that I got to spend five days enjoying Mendoza. It's a very welcoming city, filled with warm people who enjoy nature. It reminded me of Denver, probably because of the proximity to the Andes Mtns and great skiing. Although Mendoza is located in a desert, they have a strange open drainage system (which is treacherous for small children, animals and tourists) all around the city to keep things green and cheerful.
Independence Plaza is the centerpiece of town and includes a Modern Art Museum and a theater. Four other squares radiate outward, each with their own charm. My favorite was the Spanish Plaza which was decorated with handpainted ceramic tiles. Anja and I went to a open air market there, and I didn't want to leave it was so charming. The lovely squares are topped only by Mendoza's large parque. It was simply gorgeous. Like NY's Central Park there was a zoo, a carousel, a large lake and many beautiful tree-lined paths. On Saturday, we spent a beautiful morning exploring the parque before the afternoon adventure...
Independence Plaza is the centerpiece of town and includes a Modern Art Museum and a theater. Four other squares radiate outward, each with their own charm. My favorite was the Spanish Plaza which was decorated with handpainted ceramic tiles. Anja and I went to a open air market there, and I didn't want to leave it was so charming. The lovely squares are topped only by Mendoza's large parque. It was simply gorgeous. Like NY's Central Park there was a zoo, a carousel, a large lake and many beautiful tree-lined paths. On Saturday, we spent a beautiful morning exploring the parque before the afternoon adventure...
Aerial View of the Andes
My new favorite excursion is paragliding. It's the most exciting way to see a new area! Anja and I headed up one of the mountains in the first Andes range, and we both agreed that the 45 minute harrowing trip up the mountain, in a 4x4 over huge rocks hanging on the edge of the cliff, was much more frightening than taking a running jump off the mountain!
Paragliding in Mendoza was very different than Rio, much more acrobatic. My ride was at sunset and the view of the snowcapped Andes with a pink and red background was heavenly. But, we didn't just glide down taking in the scenery. My adorable pilot let me steer and took me for a rollercoaster ride!
I wonder how you get a paragliding pilot's license? These fun guys have the best job in the world!
Saturday, June 25, 2005
Mendoza Hostel Lagares
My home in Mendoza is special enough to warrant an entry all its own! Five friends from Buenos Aires came to Mendoza to open the perfect hostel and it's called Lagares (www.hostellagares.com.ar Corrientes 213).
I received 5 star service from these friendly folks. Sebastian immediately understood my serious interest in wine and mapped out a logical schedule for my visits. Mariana, a mom-to-be, called the wineries on my list and booked two days of visits and had a rental car delivered to the hostel. Who knew you had to have a reservation for a private tour? No dropping by wineries unannounced in Argentina! Damian, who studied wine and dates Eugenia our tour guide at Nieto Senetiner, gave me expert directions and helpful tips. And, Javier set Anja and I up with his friends to paraglide. There were even traditional Argentine meals cooked on the weekends, and Javier got out the guitar and had everyone singing by the end of the evenings.
I´ve heard of the Argentine custom of passing the Mate (the strong tea the whole country drinks CONSTANTLY from cute little pots through silver straws) around for your friends to drink. Mariana spent most of the evenings giving everyone a taste and generally making the international group feel Argentine for our stay in Mendoza!
Another Taste of Argentina´s Wine Country
I didn´t taste enough of Argentina´s great wines yesterday, so I'm back at it today! My German friend from Buenos Aires, Anja Tiedge, arrived just as I was having my coffee con leche this morning and she decided to join me in wine country. I warned her about the day of wine speak, but she thought she could take it.
It was much better having a navigator, and having the benefit of many directional mistakes yesterday. We found our first winery, Bodegas Chandon, with ease (well only one wrong turn and a u-turn off the highway onto a stone path through a vineyard). We had heard that the Chandon winery was a little self important and we found just the opposite. We were greeted very kindly by the guards and our tour guide seemed geniunely glad to see us. Our guide, Tatiana, was wonderful. She did not usually give tours in English and yet her English was superb. The first stop on the tour was the grape receiving area, and I was very impressed with the signs they had to describe how each varietal brought different taste qualities to the wine. It made the blending process very easy to understand. We had a great tour and a very thorough explanation of the two methods they use to make sparkling wine, why they are different and then we tasted the results in the lovely tasting room. The place exuded quality, and we enjoyed our time with Tatiana very much!
Next Anja and I made our way to the Nieto Senetiner winery. We arrived through a romantic old tree-lined driveway. The guards here were welcoming and we were allowed to wait alone for our guide outside on the spectacular grounds. The country style house made with adobe was completely surrounded by flowers (no small feat in the desert). Behind the owner´s house there were clay tennis courts with a magnificent view of the Andes. I wanted to move in really badly.
Our tour guide at Nieto Senetiner (which is a combination of the two names of the founding families--one Spanish and one Italian), was Maria Eugenia. Eugenia is the girlfriend of one of our hostel owners, Damian, who also studied wine. Eugenia first took us through the vineyards near the winery and then we followed the wine making process through the winery. It is the off season so many areas were under construction. They have almost completed a new restaurant, guest quarters, and tasting room. We ended the tour with a perfect tasting out on the grounds of the vineyard. We stood in the shadow of the Andes Mountains and had among others a wonderful Syrah and Malbec. Eugenia was fantastic and we left the splendid grounds feeling like we had just visited a friend´s house.
We immediately found a restaurant, called Los Troncos, on the town square in Lujan de Cuyo. It was an all-you-can-eat buffet and we wanted to spend the whole afternoon eating. However, after several plates we made our way to our last winery.
The trip to Catena Zapata was very difficult. The completely unmarked roads were basically stone paths. I kept expecting to end up in someone´s yard. We had to ask directions in Spanish several times and that is always fun. Then all of a sudden we came upon this amazing Mayan Pyramid in the middle of an extremely poor area. Getting past the guard here was tremendously difficult--a lessor woman would have left in defeat.
The Catena Zapata was stunning. However the tour and tasting were cold and uninspiring. They focused on selling cases and it was the only winery I've visited who charged for tasting. The final straw is that the particular wines we were allowed to taste were not as impressive in my opinon as some I had in Buenos Aires. However, the circular cellar with 4,000 barrels and a glass tasting room was something to see. They were having a wine luncheon and I wanted to invite myself to join the fun! This was also the only winery who emphasised their medals and scores by Robert Parker.
It was a wonderful day in Argentina´s wine country! I'm now a major Malbec fan. I look forward to stocking my wine cooler at home in New York with all the new wines I tasted. Cheers!
It was much better having a navigator, and having the benefit of many directional mistakes yesterday. We found our first winery, Bodegas Chandon, with ease (well only one wrong turn and a u-turn off the highway onto a stone path through a vineyard). We had heard that the Chandon winery was a little self important and we found just the opposite. We were greeted very kindly by the guards and our tour guide seemed geniunely glad to see us. Our guide, Tatiana, was wonderful. She did not usually give tours in English and yet her English was superb. The first stop on the tour was the grape receiving area, and I was very impressed with the signs they had to describe how each varietal brought different taste qualities to the wine. It made the blending process very easy to understand. We had a great tour and a very thorough explanation of the two methods they use to make sparkling wine, why they are different and then we tasted the results in the lovely tasting room. The place exuded quality, and we enjoyed our time with Tatiana very much!
Next Anja and I made our way to the Nieto Senetiner winery. We arrived through a romantic old tree-lined driveway. The guards here were welcoming and we were allowed to wait alone for our guide outside on the spectacular grounds. The country style house made with adobe was completely surrounded by flowers (no small feat in the desert). Behind the owner´s house there were clay tennis courts with a magnificent view of the Andes. I wanted to move in really badly.
Our tour guide at Nieto Senetiner (which is a combination of the two names of the founding families--one Spanish and one Italian), was Maria Eugenia. Eugenia is the girlfriend of one of our hostel owners, Damian, who also studied wine. Eugenia first took us through the vineyards near the winery and then we followed the wine making process through the winery. It is the off season so many areas were under construction. They have almost completed a new restaurant, guest quarters, and tasting room. We ended the tour with a perfect tasting out on the grounds of the vineyard. We stood in the shadow of the Andes Mountains and had among others a wonderful Syrah and Malbec. Eugenia was fantastic and we left the splendid grounds feeling like we had just visited a friend´s house.
We immediately found a restaurant, called Los Troncos, on the town square in Lujan de Cuyo. It was an all-you-can-eat buffet and we wanted to spend the whole afternoon eating. However, after several plates we made our way to our last winery.
The trip to Catena Zapata was very difficult. The completely unmarked roads were basically stone paths. I kept expecting to end up in someone´s yard. We had to ask directions in Spanish several times and that is always fun. Then all of a sudden we came upon this amazing Mayan Pyramid in the middle of an extremely poor area. Getting past the guard here was tremendously difficult--a lessor woman would have left in defeat.
The Catena Zapata was stunning. However the tour and tasting were cold and uninspiring. They focused on selling cases and it was the only winery I've visited who charged for tasting. The final straw is that the particular wines we were allowed to taste were not as impressive in my opinon as some I had in Buenos Aires. However, the circular cellar with 4,000 barrels and a glass tasting room was something to see. They were having a wine luncheon and I wanted to invite myself to join the fun! This was also the only winery who emphasised their medals and scores by Robert Parker.
It was a wonderful day in Argentina´s wine country! I'm now a major Malbec fan. I look forward to stocking my wine cooler at home in New York with all the new wines I tasted. Cheers!
Friday, June 24, 2005
Thursday, June 23, 2005
A Taste of Argentina
Yesterday afternoon I flew up to Mendoza in the heart of Argentina´s wine country to spend a few days sampling the best of Argentina! Thanks to Jeff Friedman at Gallo, I was equipped with a list of great wineries to visit. The staff at my new hostel were also extremely helpful in calling all the wineries to create a two day schedule of private visits, in English, in a geographical order that makes sense.
I was off this morning in my little rental car (thrilled that my Dad taught me to drive on a standard) heading south of Mendoza into the wine region called Lujan de Cuyo, which according to all the banners in town is celebrating it´s 150 year history. I got lost as I entered wine country, but I had plenty of time and enjoyed seeing more. For those who think I sound like a wine geek sometimes (Norm), here´s where you should tune out and wait for the next entry...
My first stop was the Norton Bodega, which was founded in 1895. This historic winery is now owned by a member of the Swarovski family from Austria. I was first struck by the secuity gates and guards. You would think I was visiting a National Defense Agency rather than a winery, but I soon found that all of the wineries had high security.
I parked and rounded the corner (with my personal guard escort) and stopped short at the view. The vineyards seem to stretch out and touch the snowcapped Andres Mountains. It was unbelieveable! The Norton tasting room was lovely with water fountains, natural stone and ivy-covered staircases leading up to an even better view. My guide was one of three professional tour guides they have in the off season, and they add two more during the high season. The tour was wonderful. The winery combines charming touches like the old tile-covered cement tanks and modern technology. You feel the prestige in a very nice way.
My favorite wine was a Privato blend (40 malbec, 30 cab, 30 merlot). They were quick to point out the 91 point Wine Spectator score! It was a very professional operation.
My next stop was a stark contrast. Dolium, is a very modern and innovative winery. I was given a tour and tasting by the owner Ricardo Giadorou. Then I had the pleasure of joining him and his staff for lunch upstairs in an open room with a magnificent view of wine country. It was a long lovely lunch and I appreciated the personal attention. Ricardo´s father started the winery 8 years ago in his retirement years. Since his father passed away in January, Richardo now runs the operation. He had previously spent 4 years in the US in sales. Now his job has changed quite a bit. It was fascinating to hear his plans for the future, including a bed and breakfast on the property. It would be a wonderful place to stay...
Armed with a new map and an excellent book on the bodegas of Argentina, I set off to find La Septima Codorniu. My guide Paula was waiting for me at the door with a traditional Argentine kiss (one cheek only). She was adorable. This is the 7th winery of the Codorniu group. it is a beautiful structure designed to reflect the surroundings. It is simple yet impressive with a fantastic outdoor space for entertaining. The views of the vineyards and the Andes were also stunning. I enjoyed going into the special barrel room which had humidifiers above the barrels and felt very cool. I tasted several wonderful Malbecs and had to buy one. I will have to drink it quickly--I can´t carry it around the world.
My last visit of the day was arranged by Ricardo at Dolium. He made an appointment for me with Mariela to tour the Bodega Ruca Malen. The former winemaker at the Chandon winery here in Argentina, Jean Pierre Thibaud, started this winery very recently. Although in his 80´s, he apparently has a very colorful personality and is very active in all operations at the winery. Ruca Malen is "a wine sparkled by a legend." The lovely story about an Indian Araucan woman and a spell from the gods is a marketers dream. This was also the first tour guide who tasted through the wines with me. I thoroughly enjoyed the visit.
After a full day of fun, I managed to find my way home again. This is no small feat considering the total lack of street signs in Argentina´s wine country. However, the road to Chile was clearly marked, and I was very tempted to make another side trip! There is always tomorrow...
Wednesday, June 22, 2005
Everyday in BA
I thought I´d share some random thoughts on life in BA:
Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. The average ride is about $3. Also, the taxis pull over to the right no matter where you are standing. Subways and buses are very easy to use and cost less than 50 cents!
I don´t know how everyone in BA stays so thin. Their diet is Italian food or red meat late at night, and there is a bread and pasty shop on absolutely every corner. A particular favorite is dolce de leche--basically carmelized sugar which they put on everything!
Everyone is well dressed, much like in Italy or Spain.
International mail is insanely expensive. It cost almost as much to send my new clothes home (by the cheapest means possible) as it did to buy them. A valuable lesson.
Movie theaters are on a grand scale here. The new Recoleta Village 11 is about 3 times the size of the average large screen theater at home. The tickets are also for assigned seats, so there´s no need to arrive early. Tickets were about $5 for adults.
On Wednesday all museums in BA are free and movies are half price.
There is plenty of American TV and movies. CSI is on right now in English, with Spanish subtitles.
The internet-phone establishments are full of locals. Computers and cell phones are not affordable for the masses. The computers that are available at the hostels are ancient!
BA has thousands of dog walkers, similar to NYC. However, the scooping laws either don´t exist or are largely ignored. It´s important to look where you are walking! And the parks are overrun with stray cats. Walking by one park block in the Palermo I counted over 30 cats.
When a restaurant is "free" it means a buffet!
There seem to be even more McDonald´s than at home. They have the golden arches, but are usually called McCafe. Dessert, pastries and coffee are very popular.
Unlike NYC, BA sleeps. Things close up in the evening at about 10 or 11 and Sunday is truly a day off because most stores are closed.
Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. The average ride is about $3. Also, the taxis pull over to the right no matter where you are standing. Subways and buses are very easy to use and cost less than 50 cents!
I don´t know how everyone in BA stays so thin. Their diet is Italian food or red meat late at night, and there is a bread and pasty shop on absolutely every corner. A particular favorite is dolce de leche--basically carmelized sugar which they put on everything!
Everyone is well dressed, much like in Italy or Spain.
International mail is insanely expensive. It cost almost as much to send my new clothes home (by the cheapest means possible) as it did to buy them. A valuable lesson.
Movie theaters are on a grand scale here. The new Recoleta Village 11 is about 3 times the size of the average large screen theater at home. The tickets are also for assigned seats, so there´s no need to arrive early. Tickets were about $5 for adults.
On Wednesday all museums in BA are free and movies are half price.
There is plenty of American TV and movies. CSI is on right now in English, with Spanish subtitles.
The internet-phone establishments are full of locals. Computers and cell phones are not affordable for the masses. The computers that are available at the hostels are ancient!
BA has thousands of dog walkers, similar to NYC. However, the scooping laws either don´t exist or are largely ignored. It´s important to look where you are walking! And the parks are overrun with stray cats. Walking by one park block in the Palermo I counted over 30 cats.
When a restaurant is "free" it means a buffet!
There seem to be even more McDonald´s than at home. They have the golden arches, but are usually called McCafe. Dessert, pastries and coffee are very popular.
Unlike NYC, BA sleeps. Things close up in the evening at about 10 or 11 and Sunday is truly a day off because most stores are closed.
Monday, June 20, 2005
More Bueno Barrios
Yesterday, I bundled up and set out to explore the neighborhood of San Telmo. Sunday is the big market day, and the artistic little barrio was a buzz. There were many antique stores, art galleries and handicrafts to see. They even had Tango dancing in the square. I didn´t want to leave! Luckily, I found a photographer selling fantastic photos of Tango dancers from interesting angles. I will frame a couple for my apt so that I can continue to dream of my potential Tango career.
Today, I am thrilled to report that we had a sunny day in Buenos Aires. I didn´t think it was possible after 5 straight days of drizzle. It was glorious! It was the perfect day to walk around the colorful La Boca Barrio. Anja, Jasmine and I went down to explore the portside neighborhood, and ended up hopping from cafe to cafe chasing the sun.
La Boca is the first port area of BA. It´s original inhabitants were mainly industrious Italian immigrants. They built their houses with wood and zinc and used the leftover colorful ships paint. There are still several blocks of charming, brightly colored houses by the water and many cafes to sample! The neighborhood is a center for artists, Tango and futbol. We had a fabulous sunny day basking in the local color!
Saturday, June 18, 2005
Sailing Away to Uruguay
In celebration of my first day without rain in Argentina, I decided on the spur of the moment to take a day trip to Uruguay. Thanks to my friend Holly´s recommendation, I went down to the port after breakfast and caught a boat going one hour up river to a historic town Colonia de Sacramento in Uruguay. It was a lovely day trip to the UNESCO World Heritage site.
I met three American grad students on the boat ride, and they talked me into renting scooters to tour around the island. I was astounded that the man let us take the motorbikes when we clearly had NO idea how to drive them! He obviously had no sense! We almost did serious damage to a palm tree (people came to check on us) and there was one incident with a curb jumping out in Jill´s way. However, we managed to whip around what used to be a quiet little town without killing anyone!
We spent the day touring the old city ruins, climbing the lighthouse, and of course there was shopping for handicrafts. We had a wonderful lunch, with a great bottle of wine from Uruguay, in what appeared to be one of the nicest restaurant´s in town. The bill for the four of us was $18 US! It is easy to see why people from Buenos Aires come over to spend the weekend here.
I met three American grad students on the boat ride, and they talked me into renting scooters to tour around the island. I was astounded that the man let us take the motorbikes when we clearly had NO idea how to drive them! He obviously had no sense! We almost did serious damage to a palm tree (people came to check on us) and there was one incident with a curb jumping out in Jill´s way. However, we managed to whip around what used to be a quiet little town without killing anyone!
We spent the day touring the old city ruins, climbing the lighthouse, and of course there was shopping for handicrafts. We had a wonderful lunch, with a great bottle of wine from Uruguay, in what appeared to be one of the nicest restaurant´s in town. The bill for the four of us was $18 US! It is easy to see why people from Buenos Aires come over to spend the weekend here.
Forever Tango
I have found my next career--Tango Dancer! I plan to grow a few more inches, dye my hair black, wear only red dresses and perform the most beautiful dance in the world!
A group of us went to a Tango Show last night, and I am truly inspired. They danced the Tango, sang the Tango, and played the Tango. It was in a small nightclub downstairs in a popular restaurant and they did a two act show. There were several couples dancing with such passion and style that it made your heart beat faster! The men had long black hair worn in a single braid and the women had dresses slit to their waists. The songs and music were also extremely moving. You did not need to understand Spanish to get the story!
Next step, Tango lessons! Perhaps some private instruction...
A group of us went to a Tango Show last night, and I am truly inspired. They danced the Tango, sang the Tango, and played the Tango. It was in a small nightclub downstairs in a popular restaurant and they did a two act show. There were several couples dancing with such passion and style that it made your heart beat faster! The men had long black hair worn in a single braid and the women had dresses slit to their waists. The songs and music were also extremely moving. You did not need to understand Spanish to get the story!
Next step, Tango lessons! Perhaps some private instruction...
Friday, June 17, 2005
Moving Downtown BA
After a plush couple of days staying in the Recoleta in my own room, I have changed hostels to get back in the thick of things. I am now in the Milhouse (www.milhouse.com) Hostel which is the famous party place in South America. The hostel is very well run with 157 guests on 3 floors and an active tour and travel desk. There is always a tour or activity on the board, and people around to sit and talk with. Just after I arrived they had a luncheon BBQ and I met a friend, Jasmine, from Rio and off we went.
Today, I explored the Central Barrio. It feels a bit like Washington DC to me. At the center of town is a large Obelisk (like the Washington Monument), set on a park (like the mall), and many of the street names and buildings have political significance. Their seat of the National Government, Casa Rosada, is a large pink building which stands out among the surrounding conservative architecture and parks with large palm trees. A former president of Argentina (back in 1873), ordered the building to be painted pink to symbolize the union of two political parties. One party used red and the other white as their colors. Talk about good PR!
I also went to Argentina´s ¨Broadway¨ Avenida Corrientes. The Producers and The Graduate are showing along with several interesting looking Argentine shows. I´m still in search of the Ballet House, because I saw a billboard for a program in honor of 100 years of Balanchine. Ballet tickets are not the usual request at the hostel. They are more focused on walking tours, dance parties and Futbol games!
Today, I explored the Central Barrio. It feels a bit like Washington DC to me. At the center of town is a large Obelisk (like the Washington Monument), set on a park (like the mall), and many of the street names and buildings have political significance. Their seat of the National Government, Casa Rosada, is a large pink building which stands out among the surrounding conservative architecture and parks with large palm trees. A former president of Argentina (back in 1873), ordered the building to be painted pink to symbolize the union of two political parties. One party used red and the other white as their colors. Talk about good PR!
I also went to Argentina´s ¨Broadway¨ Avenida Corrientes. The Producers and The Graduate are showing along with several interesting looking Argentine shows. I´m still in search of the Ballet House, because I saw a billboard for a program in honor of 100 years of Balanchine. Ballet tickets are not the usual request at the hostel. They are more focused on walking tours, dance parties and Futbol games!
The Barrios of Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is an elegant city even in the winter rain! BA is divided into barrios or neighborhoods each with its own personality. I plan to get to know them all!
For my first two days, I'm staying in the Recoleta, the most distinguished neighborhood. If this were New York, I'd be uptown. The name Recoleta comes from the Barefoot Monks of Recoleta who lived here in the early 18th century. The area has a French feel with wide tree lined boulevards. There must be a rule that you have a green thumb or a gardner to live in the apartments with balconies, because they are all filled with lush green plants. Even in the winter there is a tropical feel.
I've visited the Buenos Aires Design Center, the National Museum of Fine Arts, and my favorite the Recoleta Cemetery. The above ground tombs in the cemetery are wonderful. I made the mandatory pilgrimage to Eva Peron's grave. A crowd was gathered to pay tribute. I also found time to do some shopping in the chic boutiques. I bought a dress, and showed great restraint to stop there.
I ventured over to the next barrio, the Palermo, to see some of the city's parks and visit the Evita Museum. Although there seemed to be a bit of revisionist history, I enjoyed learning more about Eva Peron and seeing some of her great clothes.
I'm headed out now for a nice grilled dinner. I feel so at home in this carnivorous culture. I've never had so much meat. I'm in heaven!
For my first two days, I'm staying in the Recoleta, the most distinguished neighborhood. If this were New York, I'd be uptown. The name Recoleta comes from the Barefoot Monks of Recoleta who lived here in the early 18th century. The area has a French feel with wide tree lined boulevards. There must be a rule that you have a green thumb or a gardner to live in the apartments with balconies, because they are all filled with lush green plants. Even in the winter there is a tropical feel.
I've visited the Buenos Aires Design Center, the National Museum of Fine Arts, and my favorite the Recoleta Cemetery. The above ground tombs in the cemetery are wonderful. I made the mandatory pilgrimage to Eva Peron's grave. A crowd was gathered to pay tribute. I also found time to do some shopping in the chic boutiques. I bought a dress, and showed great restraint to stop there.
I ventured over to the next barrio, the Palermo, to see some of the city's parks and visit the Evita Museum. Although there seemed to be a bit of revisionist history, I enjoyed learning more about Eva Peron and seeing some of her great clothes.
I'm headed out now for a nice grilled dinner. I feel so at home in this carnivorous culture. I've never had so much meat. I'm in heaven!
Thursday, June 16, 2005
Tuesday, June 14, 2005
The Wonder of Waterfalls
Yesterday, I flew inland to the spot where Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina meet. Two rivers also merge in this heavenly spot and the majesty of Iguazu Falls is positively breathtaking. I landed on the Brazilian side and took a two hour walk to see the full view of the Iguazu Falls. Iguazu is the Indian word for big water, and big it is!
As I walked along absorbing the view, I finally understood why the American artist Frederick Church was so fascinated by waterfalls in both North and South America. The combination of delicate beauty and blunt force is awe-inspiring. If you add in the exotic subtropical jungle setting it is truly captivating. This would be an excellent time to be an artist, poet, or cinematographer to try to capture the scene for others to experience! I just took a million photos...
Today I spend the day on the Argentina side where you can get close to the waterfalls. I even took an adventure speed boat ride under the falls to feel the power and basically just get drenched. (Useful camping item number one was the rain poncho I packed! Also, thanks to Julie and Tom for the quick drying trail shirt set.) We also did a jungle tour in a topless Hummer where we learned about the flora in the area. There are 47 types of orchids in the park and they bloom in Sept-October. Now that´s the time to be here!
As I walked along absorbing the view, I finally understood why the American artist Frederick Church was so fascinated by waterfalls in both North and South America. The combination of delicate beauty and blunt force is awe-inspiring. If you add in the exotic subtropical jungle setting it is truly captivating. This would be an excellent time to be an artist, poet, or cinematographer to try to capture the scene for others to experience! I just took a million photos...
Today I spend the day on the Argentina side where you can get close to the waterfalls. I even took an adventure speed boat ride under the falls to feel the power and basically just get drenched. (Useful camping item number one was the rain poncho I packed! Also, thanks to Julie and Tom for the quick drying trail shirt set.) We also did a jungle tour in a topless Hummer where we learned about the flora in the area. There are 47 types of orchids in the park and they bloom in Sept-October. Now that´s the time to be here!
Monday, June 13, 2005
Blame it on the Bosso Nova
It was befitting that my last night in Brazil was their St. Valentine's Day. I have completely fallen in love with Rio!
Was it the beautiful Bosso Nova in the club Visconde, the ultimate combination of city and beach lifestyles, the swinging samba beat in Santa Teresa, the fish and banana stew, the lush forest with monkeys and orchids in the wild, the fresh fruit for breakfast, the wanton abandon on the dance floor, the caipirinha's, dinner at 11pm...? Or, is it simply the priority that those living in or visiting Rio place on passion in all things?
I'm already looking forward to returning to Rio one day!
Was it the beautiful Bosso Nova in the club Visconde, the ultimate combination of city and beach lifestyles, the swinging samba beat in Santa Teresa, the fish and banana stew, the lush forest with monkeys and orchids in the wild, the fresh fruit for breakfast, the wanton abandon on the dance floor, the caipirinha's, dinner at 11pm...? Or, is it simply the priority that those living in or visiting Rio place on passion in all things?
I'm already looking forward to returning to Rio one day!
Sunday, June 12, 2005
Riding High Over Rio
Find the best way to spend my last day in Rio was a breeze. I went paragliding for a bird's eye view of my new favorite city. Renato Janssens, an adorable brazilian who owns a paragliding business (www.paraglideinrio.com.br), picked me up at Casa 6 and off we went to the launch site in Tijuca National Park.
First, I signed away the liability of my life, including the declaration that I had taken the instruction class, which consided of Renato saying "when we start down the launch, run and don't sit down." Then we sat together all hooked up looking straight down a mountain in the forest waiting for the right wind. Just as I began to question my sanity it was time to take off. After a scary running start, the view of the mountains, the city of Rio, the welcoming Christ the Redeemer, and the magnificient beaches was well worth it!
We floated above Rio taking it all in and taking lots of photos. I enjoyed the free flying sensation, the cute Brazilian whispering in my ear, and the brilliant landscape. We landed without a hitch in a little park next to the beach. Just like Rio, it was all very exciting!
First, I signed away the liability of my life, including the declaration that I had taken the instruction class, which consided of Renato saying "when we start down the launch, run and don't sit down." Then we sat together all hooked up looking straight down a mountain in the forest waiting for the right wind. Just as I began to question my sanity it was time to take off. After a scary running start, the view of the mountains, the city of Rio, the welcoming Christ the Redeemer, and the magnificient beaches was well worth it!
We floated above Rio taking it all in and taking lots of photos. I enjoyed the free flying sensation, the cute Brazilian whispering in my ear, and the brilliant landscape. We landed without a hitch in a little park next to the beach. Just like Rio, it was all very exciting!
Friday, June 10, 2005
How Many Reais?
Week One -- Under Budget!
The Tally is in... I've spent approximately $600 dollars (Or about 1,550 Reais). Also interesting to note, not one credit card charge -- I'll bet AmEx and Mastercard are sending out a search party.
This includes:
Several tours
Live entertainment
An excursion on bus and ferry to an island
The required purchases of beachwear and Havaianas (Brazilian must-have sandals)
Taxis around Rio
Internet use
Rooms shared with others
All the food and drink I could try...
Thank Heaven that lying on the beach, people watching, and making new friends are free!
The Tally is in... I've spent approximately $600 dollars (Or about 1,550 Reais). Also interesting to note, not one credit card charge -- I'll bet AmEx and Mastercard are sending out a search party.
This includes:
Several tours
Live entertainment
An excursion on bus and ferry to an island
The required purchases of beachwear and Havaianas (Brazilian must-have sandals)
Taxis around Rio
Internet use
Rooms shared with others
All the food and drink I could try...
Thank Heaven that lying on the beach, people watching, and making new friends are free!
Thursday, June 09, 2005
A Grande Time in Ilha Grande
For a brief break in the perfection that is Ipanema, I joined Karol, my Irish roommate from Casa 6, on a trip down the Costa Verde to Ilha Grande (www.ilhagrande.com.br). We took a bus for a couple of hours, walked a mile with the backpacks and hopped on a schooner for another hour to a rustic tropical paradise.
Ilha Grande is predominantly lush green forest dotted with beautiful beaches surrounding a quaint town square. It's very casual and peaceful here, a huge contrast from Rio!
Our hostel is on the water with a magnificent view and plenty of hammocks from which to enjoy it. I was thrilled with getting our own bathroom, until I learned that the hot water is "spotty" but what can you expect for about $8 each including breakfast? My standards are drastically shifting as I ease into travel mode.
Today we took an all day trip to a beach called Lopes Mendes, which rivals any I've seen in the world so far. It is said to be the best in Brazil. We had to hike through the forest for 20 min. to reach it and were rewarded with an incredible day. I was sorry to take the boat back just before sunset. I could have stayed there in a hut on that beautiful beach indefinitely.
I've met some very fun people and plan to go back to Rio with them tomorrow, if I can tear myself away from Ilha Grande!
Ilha Grande is predominantly lush green forest dotted with beautiful beaches surrounding a quaint town square. It's very casual and peaceful here, a huge contrast from Rio!
Our hostel is on the water with a magnificent view and plenty of hammocks from which to enjoy it. I was thrilled with getting our own bathroom, until I learned that the hot water is "spotty" but what can you expect for about $8 each including breakfast? My standards are drastically shifting as I ease into travel mode.
Today we took an all day trip to a beach called Lopes Mendes, which rivals any I've seen in the world so far. It is said to be the best in Brazil. We had to hike through the forest for 20 min. to reach it and were rewarded with an incredible day. I was sorry to take the boat back just before sunset. I could have stayed there in a hut on that beautiful beach indefinitely.
I've met some very fun people and plan to go back to Rio with them tomorrow, if I can tear myself away from Ilha Grande!
Tuesday, June 07, 2005
Favela Fascination
Favela's are the poorest areas in Rio. We'd call them slums. They originated because of a Brazilian law allowing you to assume ownership of public land if you build a house on it and live there for 5 years. The poor build make-shift houses up the side of hills and it grows... 20% of Rio's population of 6 million live in the hundreds of favela's. They are typically run by drug lords who sell drugs freely in these areas through bribing the police. It's actually quite well organized chaos.
I took a tour of 2 favel's with a great guide today (Madson, www.favelatour.com.br 3322-2727). We learned how the community works and the socio/political implications. It was fascinating.
Last night we went on a group outing to a huge club in the largest favela, The Rocinha. There are over 200,000 residents in this hillside community which overlooks Rio. The club was a mass of humanity and the most fun ever! The hip hop/house/Brazilian pop music filled the warehouse and it was all about the dancing. Man can those Brazilian's move! It was a wild experience of passion and abandon that I'll never forget. I'm now a true favela fan!
I took a tour of 2 favel's with a great guide today (Madson, www.favelatour.com.br 3322-2727). We learned how the community works and the socio/political implications. It was fascinating.
Last night we went on a group outing to a huge club in the largest favela, The Rocinha. There are over 200,000 residents in this hillside community which overlooks Rio. The club was a mass of humanity and the most fun ever! The hip hop/house/Brazilian pop music filled the warehouse and it was all about the dancing. Man can those Brazilian's move! It was a wild experience of passion and abandon that I'll never forget. I'm now a true favela fan!
Monday, June 06, 2005
Brazilian Beauty
For the Brazilians, beauty treatments are an art!
I went in search of the famous Brazilian and found several options on the way to Ipanema beach. What price for beauty? Mani's $2, Pedi's $5, and the traditional Brazilian is only $10. These prices take the sting out of anything. The Brazilian beauty experience gets an A+!
I went in search of the famous Brazilian and found several options on the way to Ipanema beach. What price for beauty? Mani's $2, Pedi's $5, and the traditional Brazilian is only $10. These prices take the sting out of anything. The Brazilian beauty experience gets an A+!
Sunday, June 05, 2005
The Rio Beach Scene
Today I participated in the parade that is the beach in Rio. They shut down half of the boulevard that runs along the beach to accommodate the crowds of tan, almost nude people strolling around checking each other out. I walked the length of Copacabana, stopped for a caipirinha, watched a football game (they play soccer over a volleyball net--looks very hard), and bought the necesary Brazilian Havaianas sandals. Then I settled in at Ipanema for the afternoon. The beach is truly a frenzy of activity. People are sitting on top of one another and men selling cold drinks, snacks, clothes, sunglasses, jewelry, and everything else you can think of are buzzing around constantly. I didn´t get any reading done--it was more fun to watch the show!
Samba Lessons
Yesterday was my first full day of adventure and it was perfect! It was an all day and night affair!
First we took a travelers tour of Rio. At 10am our guide, Wilson, picked up Stephanie &Alex (England), Karol (Ireland), Marta (Spain) and me for a hike in the Tijuca National Park. Yes, I did hike up to the top of Pedro Bonita and thought I might die. But, the view of the city and all its beaches was well worth it. I was able to enjoy the walk down where we saw orchids growing wild and adorable star monkeys.
Next stop was the top of the Christ the Redemmer statue which welcomes everyone to Rio, much like our Statue of Liberty. There were more amazing views and some hilarious group photos.
Next our merry group took a trolly ride up to Santa Teresa, a mountain artist community near the city center. We had a wonderful and simple Brazilian soul food lunch at Bar do Mineiro (Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno, 99/ 2221-9227 bardomineiro@zipmail.com). They had great magazine placements framed from Vogue, etc. Loved it!
We headed back to Casa 6 for communal power naps and more food. Everyone got all dolled up for an evening on the town. We went out with a group to celebrate our guide Wilson´s birthday. He picked us up at 10:30pm and took us to a local outdoor samba table club on top of Santa Teresa. The place was rustic, the locals were hot and music was heavenly. I learned to samba while drinking caipirinha´s and taking in all the lights of Rio below. People were spilling out into the street doing the samba under the stars. It doesn´t get much better! Well, actually it did...
We headed at 3am to the Friday night street dance in Lapa, another area near the city center. Thousands of shirtless Barzilians dancing in the clubs and the street made for an exciting evening/morning. We danced until dawn and then Karol, Elana and I hopped in a taxi to Ipanema beach for the sunrise.
Just another day in paradise! I might not come home...
First we took a travelers tour of Rio. At 10am our guide, Wilson, picked up Stephanie &Alex (England), Karol (Ireland), Marta (Spain) and me for a hike in the Tijuca National Park. Yes, I did hike up to the top of Pedro Bonita and thought I might die. But, the view of the city and all its beaches was well worth it. I was able to enjoy the walk down where we saw orchids growing wild and adorable star monkeys.
Next stop was the top of the Christ the Redemmer statue which welcomes everyone to Rio, much like our Statue of Liberty. There were more amazing views and some hilarious group photos.
Next our merry group took a trolly ride up to Santa Teresa, a mountain artist community near the city center. We had a wonderful and simple Brazilian soul food lunch at Bar do Mineiro (Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno, 99/ 2221-9227 bardomineiro@zipmail.com). They had great magazine placements framed from Vogue, etc. Loved it!
We headed back to Casa 6 for communal power naps and more food. Everyone got all dolled up for an evening on the town. We went out with a group to celebrate our guide Wilson´s birthday. He picked us up at 10:30pm and took us to a local outdoor samba table club on top of Santa Teresa. The place was rustic, the locals were hot and music was heavenly. I learned to samba while drinking caipirinha´s and taking in all the lights of Rio below. People were spilling out into the street doing the samba under the stars. It doesn´t get much better! Well, actually it did...
We headed at 3am to the Friday night street dance in Lapa, another area near the city center. Thousands of shirtless Barzilians dancing in the clubs and the street made for an exciting evening/morning. We danced until dawn and then Karol, Elana and I hopped in a taxi to Ipanema beach for the sunrise.
Just another day in paradise! I might not come home...
Saturday, June 04, 2005
The Girl In Ipanema
Rio is the perfect beginning for my journey! This is the city of beautiful sunrises!I landed in a fabulous pink sky, and after an all night street dance I watched the sun come up on Ipanema beach this morning. I'm off to a picturesque start!
I found my way to Casa 6, an adorable B&B in Ipanema (www.casa6ipanema.com Rue Barao da Torre, 175), with no trouble and made friends fast! I'm in a room with 5 other people so it was easy. On my first evening there was a group dinner at the Casa where 9 of us had a brazilian version of Chicken pot pie--I'm truly at home! We ate, drank and danced for hours.
I'm thrilled that I chose to stay in Ipanema over Copacabana. Copacabana is the most crowded neighborhood in Brazil. It feels more like a city than a beach community. But, the beach is something to see!
I highly recommend Ipanema in the winter. I can't imagine being here in the summer heat. It´s now in the low 80´s and humid. I'm staying 3 blocks from the beach in a neighborhood of beautiful people! Surfers walk through the streets in their shorts, without shoes carrying their boards. People sit for hours in the outdoor cafes along the tree lined streets. It feels like summer to me!
I found my way to Casa 6, an adorable B&B in Ipanema (www.casa6ipanema.com Rue Barao da Torre, 175), with no trouble and made friends fast! I'm in a room with 5 other people so it was easy. On my first evening there was a group dinner at the Casa where 9 of us had a brazilian version of Chicken pot pie--I'm truly at home! We ate, drank and danced for hours.
I'm thrilled that I chose to stay in Ipanema over Copacabana. Copacabana is the most crowded neighborhood in Brazil. It feels more like a city than a beach community. But, the beach is something to see!
I highly recommend Ipanema in the winter. I can't imagine being here in the summer heat. It´s now in the low 80´s and humid. I'm staying 3 blocks from the beach in a neighborhood of beautiful people! Surfers walk through the streets in their shorts, without shoes carrying their boards. People sit for hours in the outdoor cafes along the tree lined streets. It feels like summer to me!
Wednesday, June 01, 2005
WEAR in the World?
My number one concern about this advenure is the packing! All the RTW travel books are written for 24 year old guys. One even suggested that I leave behind my favorite jeans because they don´t dry fast enough. Ha!
Here´s what I´ve decided to take along for the ride. I will review the list later to see what was actually useful or ridiculous to bring.
Clothes:
5 pair of pants -- including my favorite jeans
5 Banana tee shirts
5 cute little tops
1 truly active top and cover set--thanks Julie!
1 long sleeved cotton shirt
1 black sweater set
1 long flowy skirt
1 bathing suit -- well it has 2 different tops for variety
1 pair of PJ pants to double as beach cover
1 weeks worth of lingerie
1 black Gallo Gear nylon jacket
Splurges-- 1 Diane VR wrap dress and of course the Pucci shirt!
Shoes:
3 pair of sandals, Tennis shoes, Hushpuppies, 1 pair of heeled sandals
Outdoor Girl Stuff:
Travel towel, 2 flash lights, travel cup, silk sleep sheet (so the bed bugs don´t bite), rain poncho, ear plugs, expandable bag
Electronics/Necessities:
New digital camera, Ipod Mini, Cell phone (for emergencies--don´t call me on it), notebook and reporters journal--Thanks Ann, 3 travel files and official papers, 1 baseball cap, twice as many toiletries as I´ll need
And the Drugs:
101 Malaria pills -- thanks Gina
4 Rx´s of antibotics
100 dramamine
And every other over the counter drug, first aid item and general protector you can think of safely packed in Tupperware of course!
Most importantly millions of Benedryl!
I filled one very large backpack (to be checked), and two small packs to be used for weekend and day packs on the road. The adventure begins with or without the right clothes!
Here´s what I´ve decided to take along for the ride. I will review the list later to see what was actually useful or ridiculous to bring.
Clothes:
5 pair of pants -- including my favorite jeans
5 Banana tee shirts
5 cute little tops
1 truly active top and cover set--thanks Julie!
1 long sleeved cotton shirt
1 black sweater set
1 long flowy skirt
1 bathing suit -- well it has 2 different tops for variety
1 pair of PJ pants to double as beach cover
1 weeks worth of lingerie
1 black Gallo Gear nylon jacket
Splurges-- 1 Diane VR wrap dress and of course the Pucci shirt!
Shoes:
3 pair of sandals, Tennis shoes, Hushpuppies, 1 pair of heeled sandals
Outdoor Girl Stuff:
Travel towel, 2 flash lights, travel cup, silk sleep sheet (so the bed bugs don´t bite), rain poncho, ear plugs, expandable bag
Electronics/Necessities:
New digital camera, Ipod Mini, Cell phone (for emergencies--don´t call me on it), notebook and reporters journal--Thanks Ann, 3 travel files and official papers, 1 baseball cap, twice as many toiletries as I´ll need
And the Drugs:
101 Malaria pills -- thanks Gina
4 Rx´s of antibotics
100 dramamine
And every other over the counter drug, first aid item and general protector you can think of safely packed in Tupperware of course!
Most importantly millions of Benedryl!
I filled one very large backpack (to be checked), and two small packs to be used for weekend and day packs on the road. The adventure begins with or without the right clothes!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)