Yesterday afternoon I flew up to Mendoza in the heart of Argentina´s wine country to spend a few days sampling the best of Argentina! Thanks to Jeff Friedman at Gallo, I was equipped with a list of great wineries to visit. The staff at my new hostel were also extremely helpful in calling all the wineries to create a two day schedule of private visits, in English, in a geographical order that makes sense.
I was off this morning in my little rental car (thrilled that my Dad taught me to drive on a standard) heading south of Mendoza into the wine region called Lujan de Cuyo, which according to all the banners in town is celebrating it´s 150 year history. I got lost as I entered wine country, but I had plenty of time and enjoyed seeing more. For those who think I sound like a wine geek sometimes (Norm), here´s where you should tune out and wait for the next entry...
My first stop was the Norton Bodega, which was founded in 1895. This historic winery is now owned by a member of the Swarovski family from Austria. I was first struck by the secuity gates and guards. You would think I was visiting a National Defense Agency rather than a winery, but I soon found that all of the wineries had high security.
I parked and rounded the corner (with my personal guard escort) and stopped short at the view. The vineyards seem to stretch out and touch the snowcapped Andres Mountains. It was unbelieveable! The Norton tasting room was lovely with water fountains, natural stone and ivy-covered staircases leading up to an even better view. My guide was one of three professional tour guides they have in the off season, and they add two more during the high season. The tour was wonderful. The winery combines charming touches like the old tile-covered cement tanks and modern technology. You feel the prestige in a very nice way.
My favorite wine was a Privato blend (40 malbec, 30 cab, 30 merlot). They were quick to point out the 91 point Wine Spectator score! It was a very professional operation.
My next stop was a stark contrast. Dolium, is a very modern and innovative winery. I was given a tour and tasting by the owner Ricardo Giadorou. Then I had the pleasure of joining him and his staff for lunch upstairs in an open room with a magnificent view of wine country. It was a long lovely lunch and I appreciated the personal attention. Ricardo´s father started the winery 8 years ago in his retirement years. Since his father passed away in January, Richardo now runs the operation. He had previously spent 4 years in the US in sales. Now his job has changed quite a bit. It was fascinating to hear his plans for the future, including a bed and breakfast on the property. It would be a wonderful place to stay...
Armed with a new map and an excellent book on the bodegas of Argentina, I set off to find La Septima Codorniu. My guide Paula was waiting for me at the door with a traditional Argentine kiss (one cheek only). She was adorable. This is the 7th winery of the Codorniu group. it is a beautiful structure designed to reflect the surroundings. It is simple yet impressive with a fantastic outdoor space for entertaining. The views of the vineyards and the Andes were also stunning. I enjoyed going into the special barrel room which had humidifiers above the barrels and felt very cool. I tasted several wonderful Malbecs and had to buy one. I will have to drink it quickly--I can´t carry it around the world.
My last visit of the day was arranged by Ricardo at Dolium. He made an appointment for me with Mariela to tour the Bodega Ruca Malen. The former winemaker at the Chandon winery here in Argentina, Jean Pierre Thibaud, started this winery very recently. Although in his 80´s, he apparently has a very colorful personality and is very active in all operations at the winery. Ruca Malen is "a wine sparkled by a legend." The lovely story about an Indian Araucan woman and a spell from the gods is a marketers dream. This was also the first tour guide who tasted through the wines with me. I thoroughly enjoyed the visit.
After a full day of fun, I managed to find my way home again. This is no small feat considering the total lack of street signs in Argentina´s wine country. However, the road to Chile was clearly marked, and I was very tempted to make another side trip! There is always tomorrow...
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