I'd rather be playing with Elephants

Thursday, September 15, 2005

Wat's in Bangkok

On Day two in Bangkok, I was forced by economics to pry myself away from the Oriental Hotel's exotic fruit and Lotus/Orchid delivery of the day and the adorable person waiting at attention to push the elevator button for me (he seemed to live for my answer--up or down?).

I nearly cried as the taxi pulled away from the Oriental enroute to my $13 a night room at the Wild Orchid Villa (on Soi Chanasongkarm/near Pra Arthit Rd). But with a stiff upper lip, I quickly adjusted to the basic room (with AC and ensuite bath) and the abundance of fun casual travelers around me. After lunch with an interesting English guy also traveling around the world, I set off on the river ferry to see two of Bangkok's Wats (temples).

Although Brian and I did the Bahts (money) and Wats (temples) tour years ago, I am excited to see them again! Bangkok has 446 Buddhist temples, and there are over 32,000 temples in Thailand with Monks in residence.

My first stop was Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn, on the opposite side of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya (river). At a distance the temple looks gray like it is made of stone or concrete, but when you get closer you see that thousands of pieces of Chinese ceramic mosaic tiles cover the surface. It was also fun to slip off my shoes and visit the main Buddha inside which is thought to be designed by King Rama II himself.

I hopped back on the river ferry to visit the famous Wat Pho. Wat Pho is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. The main attraction here is a massive reclining Buddha (46 meters long/15 meters high), which is made of brick and covered with gold leaf. It is indeed overwhelming (they built the building around the Buddha). I hired a guide to show me around and point out things like the Thai massage drawings and yoga statutes. This wat is the national headquarters for the teaching of traditional Thai medicine, including Thai massage. I knew I liked this place!

However, the best was yet to come. At closing time, my guide took me to a spectacular gold alter in the temple where the Monks gather to worship. It was amazing! At 5pm about 40 saffron robed monks filed in and sat on a platform. (Monks must be 20 years old, so there were another 20 or so "novices" aged 7-19 kneeling behind the platform). I was glued to my spot on the floor. They started to chant and it sounded like a sound from within. No individual voice was discernible, they were in perfect rhythm. It was so uplifting! I felt honored to be there and witness such a beautiful moment.

Visiting the Kingdom of Thailand is like nothing else. I am so happy to be here. I will base myself in Bangkok and fly around to other parts of the country and Cambodia. Tomorrow morning I fly down to Ko Samui. This little island is in the Gulf of Thailand. I plan to pack a weekend bag and meet my LA airplane friend, Larry, for some island time in Thailand. More soon from the Thai beaches...

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