I'd rather be playing with Elephants

Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Holy Cow, I'm in India!


It took 36 hours and two airlines, but I finally made it to India from Cambodia (lesson: do not fly Indian Airlines). The best thing that happened during my travel debacle is that I found a book at the airport called "Holy Cow" written by an Australian woman traveling in India. It got me laughing out loud and ready for Delhi. Well, as ready as anyone can be for Delhi.

I'm used to anarchy on roads, and even the practice of horn blowing instead of blinkers just kind of makes sense here. (Autorickshaws actually have "Horn Please" written on the back, as if anyone had to be asked to blow the horn here!) My first shock on the drive into downtown New Delhi was the cows wandering in the road. They are the only thing that traffic stops for--no one blows the horn at the divine bovines. Everyone just waits for them to decide to move on across eight lanes of traffic. You have to see it to believe it.

As my driver was telling me that the hotel is in a very nice area, we made a U-turn into oncoming traffic, slipped down a dirt road with a dead dog in the middle, and he announced that we'd arrived at the Prince Polonia luxury hotel. I was shown to my room ($22) where it was proudly pointed out that I have toilet paper and soap! I'm living it up in Delhi already!

Taking it all in stride and not wanting to leave the hotel at night, I went to the roof top restaurant for dinner. I met a lovely French airline flight attendant and a couple from Canada who were all on repeat trips to India. They just glowed with excitement telling me about the country and it is contagious!

Wearing my fake wedding ring and a long skirt, I charged down the dirt road this morning to the main bazaar in Paharganj to find a travel agent and plan my trip around Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh (areas of amazing palaces, forts, camels, bazaars, holy cities...). I rounded the corner and stopped cold. I panicked for a minute thinking that if they still snatch women and sell them into slavery anywhere in the world it would be here. And, I'm having a horrible hair day and consequently wouldn't even fetch a good price!

I took a deep breath, plastered a smile on my face and bravely entered the fray. Within no time I felt more secure. I found what I hope is a good travel agent, booked my next two weeks of travel, had chai tea with some nice people and acclimated to the chaos that is India. Seeing the cows mingle with the carts, cars and craziness is starting to seem normal. I think I'm ready for an Indian adventure!

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